|
|
Modeller Build Logs
M8 HMC |
| By Michael Bedard | | Started: | Nov 14, 2007 | | Updated: | Jul 17, 2008 |
|
I received the Tiger Model Designs M8 HMC on October 17, 2007 (a day after my birthday) from Saul Garcia. I was surprised to see how large a box the kit comes in considering the size of the vehicle. The box was packed with several resin cast parts, AFV Club styrene parts, a CD from Toadman, large instruction booklet plus an extra set of tracks and decals that Saul threw in for giggles. My first impression is the amount and quality of the resin castings. The instructions are more comprehensive than any other resin kit I have ever seen. Reading through the instructions one gets the feeling that the owner and master-builder have put together an extraordinary kit but apologize for it not being ‘perfect’. The booklet points out several areas that the initial build came across as points to be aware of when building the kit. Just the instructions alone are a marvel in the resin kit business. As I proceed with the BLOG I may come across points in construction or detail that others may want to be aware. Hopefully this BLOG will inspire others to purchase this extraordinary resin kit and/or help with their own build.
I won’t go through the history of the vehicle or review of the kit since Saul has already posted this on track-link. I will be using as reference for the build past articles in Military Modelling by Steve Zaloga and Cookie Seawell, Osprey books on the Stuart (along with Steve Zaloga’s Modeling book on the Stuart), Hunnicutt’s book on light tanks and my own reference photos of a local M5A1 Stuart and Aberdeen’s M8. I may post some of these references along in the BLOG.
|
|
|
|
| Removing pieces from carriers | Nov 18, 2007 |
Probably the most unique aspects of building a resin kit is taking care of the resin parts on their carriers. Unlike a styrene injected plastic kit where just a sprue cutter will work it is advisable to have a variety of saws and clippers. Tiger Model Designs uses a type of resin that is quite different than most others I have encountered. Most other companies use a cream colored resin that is hard and sometimes brittle at times. TMD’s resin is gray and a bit softer, actually more like styrene plastic. Dust from sanding and cutting isn’t as much a nuisance as other resins and seems easier to clean up. My bag of tools consists of the following:
Picture 1 – Regular model/hobby knife. Like so many I have the X-Acto brand model knife but there are others. Using a straight edge and pulling with the knife along the separation point of the model piece and its carrier you can score the resin. I would suggest doing it on both sides. Having scored the piece you can then carefully snap the piece off the carrier. Use this tool and technique on thin and straight pieces.
Picture 2 – TMD’s resin is very similar to styrene plastic. Just like on an injected molded kit you can use regular model snips to remove small detail parts. This tool may not work so well on other resin kits if they are made of the more brittle types of resin. Using these snips on the more brittle resins may crack the piece.
Picture 3 – X-Acto makes a small saw blade for their #1 handle that is great for sawing off a larger piece with heavier carrier block that scoring or snipers won’t fit or work.
Picture 4 – Many resin kits have strange shaped or round parts that straight edged tools do not work so well. Using a jeweler’s saw is a great tool for these odd shaped parts. This is the oldest model tool I have. I was inspired to purchase this tool after reading an article in Auto World on how to open doors on model cars. I bought this when I was a Jr. High student back in the late 1960s. Still works great after 40 years.
Picture 5 – Some resin parts are large and have huge carrier blocks. Most are on a straight line. A miter or chopping saw works well with these larger parts. It keeps the cut straight and removes the parts quickly. On the harder resins it does create a bit of dust though. This particular saw is made by X-Acto.
|
 |
|
|
