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Modeller Build Logs

Tasca M32 Recovery Vehicle w/ T1E1 Mine Roller

By James Wechsler
Started: Apr 15, 2008
Updated: Jun 19, 2008

First off let me say that Paul Owen is a great guy, even if he is a Vancouver Canucks fan. Having built 44 Shermans, I really hadn’t planned on buying the Tasca M4A1 kit since I’d built that variant a few times over. But Paul sent me this kit and it is a really, really great gift. So I got motivated to do something special. After thinking about it for a while, I realized that simply building this kit as a gun tank really didn’t get me excited. Then it dawned on me, it would make the perfect conversion base for an M32 Armored Recovery Vehicle. I mean the old Italeri kit was just staring at me and screaming ‘I need a new hull, suspension, and transmission cover!’ So there it was, my mega project. But then I got to thinking a little more. Why not go further? Let’s scratch build the T1E1 ‘Earthworm’ mine roller! Never heard of this massive contraption? Check here: http://www.jedsite.info/engineer/tango-number-us/t1_series/t1e1/t1e1-intro.html But wait, there’s more. The M32 has two huge hatches on the turret structure that just scream ‘interior’. At last, my project has reached planning fruition. This blog will be of an M32 ARV w/T1E1 Mine Roller and a full interior. Plan on a lot of chapters.

Introduction So what is it going to take? Preparing the Hull Casting the Hull Let’s get Giggy with it! Rear Hull Fixing Mounting the Transmission The scratch building begins More Scratch Building Engine Engine Ducting Engine Bay The Mine Roller Attachment Revisited Engine Wiring Drive Shaft and Firewall Transmission
[Discussion]

Rear Hull FixingMay 3, 2008
When I decided to shave off the rivet to convert the lower hull to a more common welded one, I also had to fix the rear hull. As Mike Bedard noted, the riveted hull had an angle plate that connected the rear hull to the lower hull. The welded one had a rounded fairing.

To make this change I first made a curvature template using scale drawings. Then I slowly built up the curvature until it matched the template all along the fairing.

Or

I just glued a plastic rod of about the right diameter, added a couple strips of plastic, puttied the whole thing smooth and considered it close enough.


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