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Modeller Build Logs
Sd.Kfz.164 Hornisse |
| By James Tainton | | Started: | Jun 28, 2003 | | Updated: | Dec 30, 2003 |
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This is my second go round with this kit from Dragon, catalouge #6165, released earlier this year. The first attempt was done out-of-the-box, to become familiar with the new tooling of this interesting tank killer.
The Hornisse is the Early version of the Nashorn Panzerjäger. The main differences being the drive sprocket (Pz.Kpfw III E), the gun brace (from the previously developed Hummel), and the exhaust systems (Hummel). Other items on the early Nashorns where rubber return rollers from Panzer IV/D's, two Boshe headlights and mud flaps at the back. Both versions used the 8.8 cm Panzerabwehrkanone 43/41.
Previous antitank guns developed by the German military after the start of W.W.II included the 4.7cm Pak(t) mounted onto a Panzer 1B chassis,the Russian 7.62 Pak36(r) placed on the Panzer II/D chassis and the Pz.Kpfw.38(t) tank chassis from invaded Czechoslovakia. Other tank hunters included the 7.5 cm Pak 40/2 used in conjunction with the Panzer II chassis,and the 7.5 cm Pak40/3 mounted on a Pz.Kpfw.(t) Ausf.II.
While these Panzerjägers were fairly good in defending against the Russian T-34 and other main battle tanks,a more devastating tank killer was asked for by the Panzertuppen.
Thus the emergence of the 88 heavy anti-aircraft gun mounted on a combination of Panzer III and Panzer IV chassis. |
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| Chapter 14 - Air Intakes Installed | Sep 11, 2003 |
| Here can be seen in Picture #1.the interior side of the plastic side armour part with the many knock-out divots filled with GreenStuff and the kits air intakes being cut out. This is all prep work for the installation of the photoetch. The photoetch part fits quite nicely into the space I created and in profile the bottom edge looks pretty good when compared to my references. I'm using the Nuts & Bolts books on both the Nashorn and the Hummel as the chassis are very similar. I also have the "Panzers from Samuar" book #3, which deals with the Nashorn.I decided to attach the main fighting compartment armour at this point just to aid in the proper alignment of these parts and the angles of the joining of the front armour and side armour. I thought to remove the back of the intakes and have it clear through but- that would create more problems- I'd have to do the engine compartment then. Both sides were done in this way and then the interior space of the hull was filled with a small amount of two part resin to give it some weight.This was poured into the driver's hatch hole. If you do this be careful that you don't overfill as it may start to leak into the fighting compartment! |
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