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Modeller Build Logs
Sd.Kfz.164 Hornisse |
| By James Tainton | | Started: | Jun 28, 2003 | | Updated: | Dec 30, 2003 |
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This is my second go round with this kit from Dragon, catalouge #6165, released earlier this year. The first attempt was done out-of-the-box, to become familiar with the new tooling of this interesting tank killer.
The Hornisse is the Early version of the Nashorn Panzerjäger. The main differences being the drive sprocket (Pz.Kpfw III E), the gun brace (from the previously developed Hummel), and the exhaust systems (Hummel). Other items on the early Nashorns where rubber return rollers from Panzer IV/D's, two Boshe headlights and mud flaps at the back. Both versions used the 8.8 cm Panzerabwehrkanone 43/41.
Previous antitank guns developed by the German military after the start of W.W.II included the 4.7cm Pak(t) mounted onto a Panzer 1B chassis,the Russian 7.62 Pak36(r) placed on the Panzer II/D chassis and the Pz.Kpfw.38(t) tank chassis from invaded Czechoslovakia. Other tank hunters included the 7.5 cm Pak 40/2 used in conjunction with the Panzer II chassis,and the 7.5 cm Pak40/3 mounted on a Pz.Kpfw.(t) Ausf.II.
While these Panzerjägers were fairly good in defending against the Russian T-34 and other main battle tanks,a more devastating tank killer was asked for by the Panzertuppen.
Thus the emergence of the 88 heavy anti-aircraft gun mounted on a combination of Panzer III and Panzer IV chassis. |
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| Chapter 16 - Fenders attached and rivets added | Sep 14, 2003 |
| Here I have attached both sides of the after market fenders, (pictures #1. - 2.), which include the scratch built metal pieces on the inside. (I used the Aber photo etch fender set for a template.) The driver's side fender did not stay on, (picture #4., not enough 2 part epoxy), which was a good thing because I still had to solder the jack clamp parts and it's better because of the heat involved that the metal is not attached to the plastic! (pictures #6. - 7.) So after I did the jack clamp parts I was able to re-attach the fender, (picture #5.), this time making sure to have enough glue and also I used to pins to secure the metal to the plastic. I then used the fancy die set,(picture #3.), to punch out some appropriate sized rivets for the top skid plate on the fenders. The Lion Roar set does have bolts and /or rivets but it's much easier to punch out rivets from plastic card than to have to cut and clean up tiny little metal bits! I attached each disc with a tiny drop of cyanacrylate glue which was placed on the spot on the fender. Then using the other side of the toothpick I touched the tip of my tounge to get a miniscule amount of moisture, which allowed me to pick up the plastic rivet and carefully place it on the dot of CA. Inside the hatches one can see the cream coloured resin of the previous step. |
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