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Modeller Build Logs

Sd.Kfz.164 Hornisse

By James Tainton
Started: Jun 28, 2003
Updated: Dec 30, 2003

This is my second go round with this kit from Dragon, catalouge #6165, released earlier this year. The first attempt was done out-of-the-box, to become familiar with the new tooling of this interesting tank killer. The Hornisse is the Early version of the Nashorn Panzerjäger. The main differences being the drive sprocket (Pz.Kpfw III E), the gun brace (from the previously developed Hummel), and the exhaust systems (Hummel). Other items on the early Nashorns where rubber return rollers from Panzer IV/D's, two Boshe headlights and mud flaps at the back. Both versions used the 8.8 cm Panzerabwehrkanone 43/41. Previous antitank guns developed by the German military after the start of W.W.II included the 4.7cm Pak(t) mounted onto a Panzer 1B chassis,the Russian 7.62 Pak36(r) placed on the Panzer II/D chassis and the Pz.Kpfw.38(t) tank chassis from invaded Czechoslovakia. Other tank hunters included the 7.5 cm Pak 40/2 used in conjunction with the Panzer II chassis,and the 7.5 cm Pak40/3 mounted on a Pz.Kpfw.(t) Ausf.II. While these Panzerjägers were fairly good in defending against the Russian T-34 and other main battle tanks,a more devastating tank killer was asked for by the Panzertuppen. Thus the emergence of the 88 heavy anti-aircraft gun mounted on a combination of Panzer III and Panzer IV chassis.

Introduction Started with gun Gun gets a wash Problems corrected Repairs and replacement Start rollin' on the wheels fixed up fenders bodywork Chapter 1 - The First Attempt Chapter 2 - The Lion Roar Set & Friulmodel Tracks Chapter 3.- Aftermarket barrel afterall Chapter 11 - Fender part deux Chapter 12 - Both fenders attached Chapter 13 - Lion Roar air intakes built Chapter 14 - Air Intakes Installed Chapter 15 - Giving the model some weight Chapter 16 - Fenders attached and rivets added Chapter 17- Ammo box amd other items Chapter 18- The Ammo box finished Chapter 19- mud and crud Chapter 20- Painted Ammo Box Chapter 21 - Tracks Chapter 22 - Tracks slipped on Chapter 23 - Ammo loaded in box and interior. Chapter 24 - Little bits Chapter 25 - Some Oil Washes Chapter 26 - Repaint with Xtra color #809 Chapter 27 - Gun Sight. Chapter 28 - Storage Box Lid and Warming Tube Chapter 29 - Dunkelgelb Chapter 30 - Corrections to the Lion Roar Fenders Chapter 31-Gun repainted, Gun Sight Installed Chapter -32 The Gun Barrel Bracket Chapter 33 - Fender Spring, Tow Cable Mounts, Seat Chapter 34 - Dunkelgelb und Dunkelgrün Chapter 35 - Decals and Balken Cross Chapter - 36 Right Hand Ammo Box Chapter - 37 Paint and Decals Chapter - 38 The Back Plate Chapter 39 - Abandoned Radio Chapter 40 - Cammo Wire Holders Chapter 41 - Range Finding Poles Chapter - 42 Towing Cable & Extras Chapter 43 - Wire in Place Chapter 44 - More Details Chapter 45 - Hats and Helmets
[Discussion]

Chapter 16 - Fenders attached and rivets addedSep 14, 2003
Here I have attached both sides of the after market fenders, (pictures #1. - 2.), which include the scratch built metal pieces on the inside. (I used the Aber photo etch fender set for a template.) The driver's side fender did not stay on, (picture #4., not enough 2 part epoxy), which was a good thing because I still had to solder the jack clamp parts and it's better because of the heat involved that the metal is not attached to the plastic! (pictures #6. - 7.) So after I did the jack clamp parts I was able to re-attach the fender, (picture #5.), this time making sure to have enough glue and also I used to pins to secure the metal to the plastic. I then used the fancy die set,(picture #3.), to punch out some appropriate sized rivets for the top skid plate on the fenders. The Lion Roar set does have bolts and /or rivets but it's much easier to punch out rivets from plastic card than to have to cut and clean up tiny little metal bits! I attached each disc with a tiny drop of cyanacrylate glue which was placed on the spot on the fender. Then using the other side of the toothpick I touched the tip of my tounge to get a miniscule amount of moisture, which allowed me to pick up the plastic rivet and carefully place it on the dot of CA. Inside the hatches one can see the cream coloured resin of the previous step.


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