Track-Link, AFV model making
Advertisement
    Home        Articles        Reviews        Gallery        Image Library        Forums     Search Login
Latest Updates
 Site NewsMay 1, 2004  
 Articles
  NewAug 2, 2005  
  ModifiedAug 8, 2005  
 Reviews
  NewSep 20, 2008  
  ModifiedApr 21, 2008  
 Gallery
  NewOct 9, 2008  
  ModifiedSep 12, 2008  
 Image Library
  NewDec 16, 2002  
  ModifiedDec 21, 2002  
About Track-Link
  What is Track-Link?
  Submissions
  Join Track-Link
  Site Information
  Terms and Conditions
Recent visitors
  Tim Roberts
  John Murcutt
  James Johnson
  Peter Mossong
  Paul Pawlak
  Ron Bollen
  Andy Glessner
  Jerry Plettenberg
  Sven Heimroth
  Daniel Dillion
  Mark Byerley
Members today:  107
Visitors today:  3734

Modeller Build Logs

Sd.Kfz.164 Hornisse

By James Tainton
Started: Jun 28, 2003
Updated: Dec 30, 2003

This is my second go round with this kit from Dragon, catalouge #6165, released earlier this year. The first attempt was done out-of-the-box, to become familiar with the new tooling of this interesting tank killer. The Hornisse is the Early version of the Nashorn Panzerjäger. The main differences being the drive sprocket (Pz.Kpfw III E), the gun brace (from the previously developed Hummel), and the exhaust systems (Hummel). Other items on the early Nashorns where rubber return rollers from Panzer IV/D's, two Boshe headlights and mud flaps at the back. Both versions used the 8.8 cm Panzerabwehrkanone 43/41. Previous antitank guns developed by the German military after the start of W.W.II included the 4.7cm Pak(t) mounted onto a Panzer 1B chassis,the Russian 7.62 Pak36(r) placed on the Panzer II/D chassis and the Pz.Kpfw.38(t) tank chassis from invaded Czechoslovakia. Other tank hunters included the 7.5 cm Pak 40/2 used in conjunction with the Panzer II chassis,and the 7.5 cm Pak40/3 mounted on a Pz.Kpfw.(t) Ausf.II. While these Panzerjägers were fairly good in defending against the Russian T-34 and other main battle tanks,a more devastating tank killer was asked for by the Panzertuppen. Thus the emergence of the 88 heavy anti-aircraft gun mounted on a combination of Panzer III and Panzer IV chassis.

Introduction Started with gun Gun gets a wash Problems corrected Repairs and replacement Start rollin' on the wheels fixed up fenders bodywork Chapter 1 - The First Attempt Chapter 2 - The Lion Roar Set & Friulmodel Tracks Chapter 3.- Aftermarket barrel afterall Chapter 11 - Fender part deux Chapter 12 - Both fenders attached Chapter 13 - Lion Roar air intakes built Chapter 14 - Air Intakes Installed Chapter 15 - Giving the model some weight Chapter 16 - Fenders attached and rivets added Chapter 17- Ammo box amd other items Chapter 18- The Ammo box finished Chapter 19- mud and crud Chapter 20- Painted Ammo Box Chapter 21 - Tracks Chapter 22 - Tracks slipped on Chapter 23 - Ammo loaded in box and interior. Chapter 24 - Little bits Chapter 25 - Some Oil Washes Chapter 26 - Repaint with Xtra color #809 Chapter 27 - Gun Sight. Chapter 28 - Storage Box Lid and Warming Tube Chapter 29 - Dunkelgelb Chapter 30 - Corrections to the Lion Roar Fenders Chapter 31-Gun repainted, Gun Sight Installed Chapter -32 The Gun Barrel Bracket Chapter 33 - Fender Spring, Tow Cable Mounts, Seat Chapter 34 - Dunkelgelb und Dunkelgrün Chapter 35 - Decals and Balken Cross Chapter - 36 Right Hand Ammo Box Chapter - 37 Paint and Decals Chapter - 38 The Back Plate Chapter 39 - Abandoned Radio Chapter 40 - Cammo Wire Holders Chapter 41 - Range Finding Poles Chapter - 42 Towing Cable & Extras Chapter 43 - Wire in Place Chapter 44 - More Details Chapter 45 - Hats and Helmets
[Discussion]

Chapter 3.- Aftermarket barrel afterallAug 4, 2003
So, after an abortive attempt at using the kit's barrel, I opted for the new release Lion Roar metal barrel.
Picture 1. shows the three components that make up the Hornisse gun barrel.
2.The breech block is prepared for the insertion of the large pin on the end of the metal barrel.
3. & 4. shows the simple procedure involved. The long locating pin, designed by Lion Roar technicians, makes the alighnment of the breech and the first tube of the 88mm a cinch.
5.& 6. shows the docking of the second half of the barrel, again the long pin makes the process easy. I used two part expoxy to make the bond, keeping the excess to a minimum- which was cleaned up with a 3M pad and small file after it had kicked.
7. & 10. shows the white metal muzzle break-not my favorite material. I find that the balance and symmetry of the two sides of muzzles made this way are irregular. While not perfect I can live with it. I replaced the muzzle's pin with one made of stronger metal. What I did was remove the white metal pin and then drill a hole where it was wherein I place a thick piece of metal wire and again using industrial grade two part expoxy glued it all together.
Picture 8. shows the insertion of the muzzle brake into the end of the second half of the barrel.
9.This is a picture of the cast resin muzzle brake wrap used when in transportation mode. I threw it in the spares box. 11. & 12. show the two barrels side by side.


    Home        Articles        Reviews        Gallery        Image Library        Forums     Contact Track-Link