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Modeller Build Logs

Sd.Kfz.164 Hornisse

By James Tainton
Started: Jun 28, 2003
Updated: Dec 30, 2003

This is my second go round with this kit from Dragon, catalouge #6165, released earlier this year. The first attempt was done out-of-the-box, to become familiar with the new tooling of this interesting tank killer. The Hornisse is the Early version of the Nashorn Panzerjäger. The main differences being the drive sprocket (Pz.Kpfw III E), the gun brace (from the previously developed Hummel), and the exhaust systems (Hummel). Other items on the early Nashorns where rubber return rollers from Panzer IV/D's, two Boshe headlights and mud flaps at the back. Both versions used the 8.8 cm Panzerabwehrkanone 43/41. Previous antitank guns developed by the German military after the start of W.W.II included the 4.7cm Pak(t) mounted onto a Panzer 1B chassis,the Russian 7.62 Pak36(r) placed on the Panzer II/D chassis and the Pz.Kpfw.38(t) tank chassis from invaded Czechoslovakia. Other tank hunters included the 7.5 cm Pak 40/2 used in conjunction with the Panzer II chassis,and the 7.5 cm Pak40/3 mounted on a Pz.Kpfw.(t) Ausf.II. While these Panzerjägers were fairly good in defending against the Russian T-34 and other main battle tanks,a more devastating tank killer was asked for by the Panzertuppen. Thus the emergence of the 88 heavy anti-aircraft gun mounted on a combination of Panzer III and Panzer IV chassis.

Introduction Started with gun Gun gets a wash Problems corrected Repairs and replacement Start rollin' on the wheels fixed up fenders bodywork Chapter 1 - The First Attempt Chapter 2 - The Lion Roar Set & Friulmodel Tracks Chapter 3.- Aftermarket barrel afterall Chapter 11 - Fender part deux Chapter 12 - Both fenders attached Chapter 13 - Lion Roar air intakes built Chapter 14 - Air Intakes Installed Chapter 15 - Giving the model some weight Chapter 16 - Fenders attached and rivets added Chapter 17- Ammo box amd other items Chapter 18- The Ammo box finished Chapter 19- mud and crud Chapter 20- Painted Ammo Box Chapter 21 - Tracks Chapter 22 - Tracks slipped on Chapter 23 - Ammo loaded in box and interior. Chapter 24 - Little bits Chapter 25 - Some Oil Washes Chapter 26 - Repaint with Xtra color #809 Chapter 27 - Gun Sight. Chapter 28 - Storage Box Lid and Warming Tube Chapter 29 - Dunkelgelb Chapter 30 - Corrections to the Lion Roar Fenders Chapter 31-Gun repainted, Gun Sight Installed Chapter -32 The Gun Barrel Bracket Chapter 33 - Fender Spring, Tow Cable Mounts, Seat Chapter 34 - Dunkelgelb und Dunkelgrün Chapter 35 - Decals and Balken Cross Chapter - 36 Right Hand Ammo Box Chapter - 37 Paint and Decals Chapter - 38 The Back Plate Chapter 39 - Abandoned Radio Chapter 40 - Cammo Wire Holders Chapter 41 - Range Finding Poles Chapter - 42 Towing Cable & Extras Chapter 43 - Wire in Place Chapter 44 - More Details Chapter 45 - Hats and Helmets
[Discussion]

Start rollin' on the wheelsJul 25, 2003
I am doing something different again here. I want to portray the primer red interior of the two part boogie wheels on this kit and to do that I have kept the parts #1 and #2 apart from one another. The armour hub caps have been placed on the outer boogie sooner to when I normally would, if I were following the directions. Which I'm not. I am buiding to aid in my painting of my tank killer. Some people like to have everything glued together before painting. Not me- I like to keep things apart, in sub-assemblies to make painting easier. I also have learned to keep the little bits off until an first weathering as these tiny bits seem to break off any ways. Those multi coloured, muti material models look pretty neat when photographed but I wonder how good the paint jobs can be when clear access is denied? Or it must make it more difficult?
Picture #1 shows the two sides that are the boogies for the Hornisse, (I believe they are the same as the boogies on the Panzer IV/F). Picture #2 shows the wheels,(boogie,drive sprockets,idles and return rollers) being primed and pre-shade with Model Master enamal flat black. Next comes some pictures showing the red oxide primer,(in this case a Polly Scale Model Railway colors Lt. freight car red) and the last couple of shots shows the base dunkel gelb applied. The next move will be to assemble these wheels and to paint the rubber and worn metal colours and then to weather and drybrush before adding to the body.


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