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Modeller Build Logs

Sherman III Early in North Africa

By James Wechsler
Started: Aug 13, 2005
Updated: Sep 25, 2005

A couple of weeks ago I wrote up a review here on Track-Link of the Legend Sherman III conversion set (LF 1096). I really liked the set and couldn’t wait to start on it. So I thought, why not do a blog to show how the build-up comes together? So here it is. Up Next: What items am I going to use?

Introduction Chapter 1 - What items am I going to use? Chapter 2 - Lower Hull Chapter 3 - The Upper Hull Chapter 4 - The Front Fenders Chapter 5 - The Sand Skirts Chapter 6 - Painting the Lower Hull Chapter 7 - Weathering the Lower Hull Chapter 8 - Those Pesky Front Fenders – Part Deux Chapter 9 - The Suspension Chapter 10 - Front Hull Details Chapter 11 - Rear Hull Details Chapter 12 - The Pioneer Tools Chapter 13 - The Turret Chapter 14 - Painting - Part 1 Chapter 15 - Painting - Part 2 Chapter 16 - Painting - Part 3 Chapter 17 - Painting - Section 4 Chapter 18 - Dry Brushing Chapter 19 - Dry Transfers Chapter 20 - Detail Painting Chapter 21 - Weathering Chapter 22 - Just the Tracks Maam Chapter 23 - Please Maam, Just the Tracks Chapter 24 - Stow it Chapter 25 - The Crew Chapter 26 - All Together Now Chapter 27 - Well, isnt that special Chapter 28 - The Base - Part 1 Chapter 29 -The Base - Part 2 Chapter 30 - Final Assembly Chapter 31 - Perspective
[Discussion]

Chapter 12 - The Pioneer ToolsAug 28, 2005
I decided to use the Formations pioneer tools (F018) since I didn’t have any photoetch brackets and straps and the kit tools really need enhancing. The Formations set is really nice and looks great when it’s on the model.

If you haven’t used this set before, don’t be intimidated. Even though it looks like a tough job to remove these small and flimsy tools from a large resin block, the good crew at Formations has thought this through and designed the set to make it rather easy. I had the chance to talk with Rob (Mr. Formations) and compare notes on how to best remove the tools from the resin block. It seems that there are a number of different ways to do this so the way I will describe below is only one method.

Personally, I start by using a saw to cut the resin block along the pre-molded grooves. Doing this means that you can now access each tool from each side. Once the block is cut up, I then use a brand new pointed Xacto blade (with the blade reversed) and begin to score each tool. I’ve found that it’s best to first free the little strap end so it doesn’t break off. Then I usually score around the strap area to get that free. After that, I always score the large pieces first (such as the shovel blade, the mallet end, etc.). Finally, I score along the handles and other long parts.

I go slow and don’t use much pressure. When you’re doing this, it seems like it will take forever. Then suddenly the part just comes off. Usually there’s minimal clean up required afterward. This part of the process does take a while. However, the benefit is that the parts can now be glued straight on the model saving a ton of time compared to the photoetch process. I can usually do the whole procedure (from when I open the bag to when I finish gluing the tools on the model) in about an hour.

One tip for first time users. The Formations set includes two mallets. Figure out which one you’re going to need and cut the other one off first. Practice makes perfect and cutting the first tool off is by far the hardest so try out your techniques on the parts you won’t be using.

I ran into no problems with these tools and mounted then in the positions shown. One note, the Legend direction shows the mallet mounted on the top of the rear hull deck. When I checked my references, both the line drawings and the photos did not show the mallet in this location. In fact, they didn’t show the mallet mounted on the tank at all! Try as I might, I could only find one photo of a later Sherman III which had a mallet mounted on the rear hull plate to the left of the track tension adjuster. So I left the mallet off.

Also, I found that the location of the track tension adjuster should be a little higher and more to the right than shown in the Legend instructions. I also added a small chain to the adjuster locking pin. I made a small eyelet from solder wire and attached it to the rear plate where the chain end is connected.

Yes I know most of this is very confusing. Hopefully the photo really does speak a 1000 words.

Up Next: The Turret


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