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Modeller Build Logs

Sherman III Early in North Africa

By James Wechsler
Started: Aug 13, 2005
Updated: Sep 25, 2005

A couple of weeks ago I wrote up a review here on Track-Link of the Legend Sherman III conversion set (LF 1096). I really liked the set and couldn’t wait to start on it. So I thought, why not do a blog to show how the build-up comes together? So here it is. Up Next: What items am I going to use?

Introduction Chapter 1 - What items am I going to use? Chapter 2 - Lower Hull Chapter 3 - The Upper Hull Chapter 4 - The Front Fenders Chapter 5 - The Sand Skirts Chapter 6 - Painting the Lower Hull Chapter 7 - Weathering the Lower Hull Chapter 8 - Those Pesky Front Fenders – Part Deux Chapter 9 - The Suspension Chapter 10 - Front Hull Details Chapter 11 - Rear Hull Details Chapter 12 - The Pioneer Tools Chapter 13 - The Turret Chapter 14 - Painting - Part 1 Chapter 15 - Painting - Part 2 Chapter 16 - Painting - Part 3 Chapter 17 - Painting - Section 4 Chapter 18 - Dry Brushing Chapter 19 - Dry Transfers Chapter 20 - Detail Painting Chapter 21 - Weathering Chapter 22 - Just the Tracks Maam Chapter 23 - Please Maam, Just the Tracks Chapter 24 - Stow it Chapter 25 - The Crew Chapter 26 - All Together Now Chapter 27 - Well, isnt that special Chapter 28 - The Base - Part 1 Chapter 29 -The Base - Part 2 Chapter 30 - Final Assembly Chapter 31 - Perspective
[Discussion]

Chapter 28 - The Base - Part 1Sep 19, 2005
Now that the well is completed, it’s time to make the base. I didn’t want to do anything to complex since I felt the model and well would show themselves. I’ve been building up a rather large Sherman collection and I’ve put them all on bases that are about 6 inches wide by 9 inches long (some are 5 X 10, some are 5 X 9, but you get my drift).

For this kit, I found that a 6 X 9 base would work well (OK bad pun). I didn’t want to have too much base since it would be mainly sand and might get a little drab. I cut the base out of piece of 1/8 inch scrap plexiglass. I then rounded the corners in order to comply with all OSHA requirements (if you believe this, contact me in private. I have some ocean front property in Utah I’d like to sell you).

I painted the base in overall tan and glued the well to the base with Epoxy. For the ground work, I used a technique shown to me by a friend of mine, Ken Schwartz. He’s a great diorama builder and his techniques are pretty straight forward and practical.

I mixed up a goop of Fixall (this is the stuff you use to fix holes in your wall at home) that I bought at the hardware store. I added some brown powdered paint (which I bought from the art supply store) until I had the tan color I wanted. I usually go for a consistency of cake frosting or slightly more runny. Then I put it on the base with a spatuala. While still wet, I sprinkled a mixture of different sand colors on top. Then, using the model I set it in place and pressed hard to get the track imprints. I then removed the model and placed it behind the original location to get the track imprints running off the base.

Usually, I can just let this dry and my base is ready. Not this time. Apparently, my sacrifices to the model gods were not sufficient because when I got all done, the base just didn’t look right.

Up Next: The Base – Part 2


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