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Modeller Build Logs
Building the Dragon 1/72 Sd.Kfz. 164 Nashorn |
| By Christopher Wilson | | Started: | Oct 20, 2005 | | Updated: | Dec 26, 2005 |
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Recently Dragon has done a brilliant job in expanding their line of 1/72 armor and giving braille scale fans some of what they want, a range of interesting subjects with increasingly impressive detail at a very reasonable price.
However, some of this comes at a cost. We still have vague instructions and one piece tracks when most braille scale modelers will tell you straight away what we want is link and length tracks.
I've watched Dragon's new kits steadily increase in quality from the coldly received Model 1940 T-34 through the Late model StuG IV.
This is my first look at Dragon's Nashorn. I've seen some controversy online in various forums as to the accuracy and buildability of the this kit.
The purpose of this blog will be to build the Dragon Nashorn as close to OOB as possible while pointing out any errors I find along the way. These include error in instructions and accuracy of the kit as well as fit of parts.
I plan to concentrate most on the buildability and what's in the box. There may be some accuracy issues that get overlooked and please feel free to point them out to me, I am no expert on the Nashorn and will not pretend to be. I will use my references to the best of my ability and point out what I find as I go through the steps of building this kit.
So let's build a 1/72 Nashorn.
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| Chapter 2 - Running Gear/Lower Hull | Nov 7, 2005 |
Step one and we are assembling the well detailed lower hull and running gear. There are two types of drive sprocket in the kit so check your references to see which is required. I have only found one picture in the refs I have showing the round hole type Panzer III drive sprocket and the vehicle I intend on making used the apparently more common later type.
The other thing to note is the suspension goes on square part toward the front and the leaf springs facing the rear of the hull. Dragon got this backward in their instructions, so just reverse things and you will be fine.
The idler wheel has nice detail and the idler pin (A19) is adjustable as on the real vehicle so you may want to leave this loose until you fit the tracks, it will allow adjustment later if necessary. I also left the road wheels off at this stage and instead painted them and set them aside.
Note: It is much easier to put the exhaust pipes on first before the return rollers, and don't forget them as this is implied in the instructions.
Next up some photoetch.
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