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Modeller Build Logs

Building the Dragon 1/72 Sd.Kfz. 164 Nashorn

By Christopher Wilson
Started: Oct 20, 2005
Updated: Dec 26, 2005

Recently Dragon has done a brilliant job in expanding their line of 1/72 armor and giving braille scale fans some of what they want, a range of interesting subjects with increasingly impressive detail at a very reasonable price. However, some of this comes at a cost. We still have vague instructions and one piece tracks when most braille scale modelers will tell you straight away what we want is link and length tracks. I've watched Dragon's new kits steadily increase in quality from the coldly received Model 1940 T-34 through the Late model StuG IV. This is my first look at Dragon's Nashorn. I've seen some controversy online in various forums as to the accuracy and buildability of the this kit. The purpose of this blog will be to build the Dragon Nashorn as close to OOB as possible while pointing out any errors I find along the way. These include error in instructions and accuracy of the kit as well as fit of parts. I plan to concentrate most on the buildability and what's in the box. There may be some accuracy issues that get overlooked and please feel free to point them out to me, I am no expert on the Nashorn and will not pretend to be. I will use my references to the best of my ability and point out what I find as I go through the steps of building this kit. So let's build a 1/72 Nashorn.

Introduction Chapter 1 - The Parts Chapter 2 - Running Gear/Lower Hull Chapter 3 - PE or not to PE Chapter 4 - Starting the Upper Hull Chapter 5 - Fighting Compartment Beginnings Chapter 6 - The Gun Part 1 Chapter 7 - The Gun Part 2 Chapter 8 - The Gun Part 3 Chapter 9 - The Rear Hull Plate Chapter 10 - The Front Upper Hull Chapter 11 - Fighting Compartment Part 2 Chapter 12 - Fighting Compartment Part 3 Chapter 13 - Fighting Compartment Part 4 Chapter 14 - Painting Begins Chapter 15 - Tracks and Roadwheels Chapter 16 - Conclusions
[Discussion]

Chapter 7 - The Gun Part 2Nov 17, 2005
This part consists of steps 4 and 5. This is the fiddliest part of the kit and because the plastic is soft and the parts small great care must be taken in removing the parts from the sprue.

I began by filling all release marks I thought would be visible with punched styrene discs. Then I assembled F17/18/11 together and set aside to dry. It is essential to get this assembly right because the rest of the gun parts will sit on it and use it to a degree for alignment.

Next I attached the seat to F3. While this dried I cleaned up the rest of the gun parts and added F36/37 to the rear gun assembly, this will be dealt with later.

Finally I added F3/19 to the dry F11/17/18 assembly and once that was totally dry I began to add the small fiddly parts such as elevation wheels and sights and supports.

Once this was dried overnight I test fit the gun shield and dry fit the entire assembly in the hull.

I also dry fit the rear portion of the gun and it does elevate as it should and all appears lined up.

All that remains of the gun is the two front pieces and the elevation guard, part F16.


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