|
|
Modeller Build Logs
Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman |
| By James Wechsler | | Started: | Jan 16, 2006 | | Updated: | Mar 15, 2006 |
|
Over the last month or so, I’ve been writing reviews of a number of Formations sets for M4 Shermans. These reviews are of sets I plan to use to build a Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman, circa 1965.
Pakistan was one of the largest post-war users of Shermans, acquiring about 547 as noted in ‘The Sherman Tank in US and Allied Service’ by Steven J. Zaloga. Pakistan fielded a number of variants but most were M4A1 and M4A3 re-manufactured tanks.
The particular variant that I’ll be modeling is an M4A1E4 with the E9 ‘double duckbill’ suspension modification. The E4 designation is one given to tanks that had the 76mm M1 gun retrofitted to the 75mm turret. This was first done during WW2 (much like the fitting of the 17 pounder by the British) but with the availability of newly manufactured 76mm Shermans, it wasn’t used very often. However, to save costs compared to changing out an entire turret, this modification was made during the post-war re-manufacturing of Shermans for sale to foreign countries, including both Pakistan and India!
The E9 modification involved moving the VVSS suspension outboard about 4 inches so an inner and outer row of extended end connectors (duckbills) could be fitted. This resulted in a track almost as wide as that used on the HVSS equipped Shermans. This modification was also developed during WW2 but was not implemented due to the availability of HVSS Shermans. Like the E4 gun modification, the E9 suspension modification was used for post-war re-manufactured Shermans to save costs compared to switching to an HVSS suspension.
The Pakistanis made extensive use of the Sherman in their wars with India (and India also had about 200 Shermans) including their 1965 war where the Shermans were used in a supporting role for the more modern M47 and M48 Pattons. They were even used in the 1971 fighting but only in small numbers (about 40).
What items am I going to use?
Of course I’m going to use the Formations items I’ve been reviewing. Here’s the list:
1. F015 M4A1 with Applique Armor for Italeri Kits
2. F055 M4/M4A1 Sherman Lower Hull
3. F045 Early High Bustle 75mm Turret
4. F039 76mm Sherman Gun Barrels
5. F053 Late Single Piece Cast Double Brake
Transmission
6. F041 Pressed Spoked Sherman Wheels w/Idlers and Spare
This covers most of what’s needed. However, there are a few more items needed to complete the project.
1. RHPS T54E1 US Metal Chevron tracks.
2. RHPS EC-2 Extended End Connectors (Duckbills), 2 sets.
3. Tiger Models TMD353023 M4 Sherman Vision Block TC's
Cupola.
4. Aber 35a34 Sherman HVSS Fenders.
5. Eduard TP028 Light Guards.
In addition, I’ll be using a number of items from the spares box such as the Italeri VVSS bogies, a Dragon muzzle brake from their M4A3(76) Sherman, and drive sprockets from a Tamiya Sherman. I plan to scratch build the E9 suspension modifications and I’ll scrounge around for the other miscellaneous pieces.
Up Next: The Lower Hull |
|
|
|
| Weathering – The Wash | Feb 25, 2006 |
The photos of the Pakistani Shermans in action show them to be rather well weathered. Most of the weathering seems to be dirt and dust accumulation but there also seems to be notable fading and streaking. The Indo-Pakistani border area is a desert and mountainous area so the conditions tend to really wear on vehicles. Also, this model represents a Sherman in use around 1965 so the tank itself was over 20 years old.
I started the weathering process by giving the whole model a wash with raw umber oil paint. I’m not sure if by today’s terminology this would be called a wash or a filter. By covering the whole model, I get both the paint change effect of a filter and the wash effect of accumulation in the corners and edges. I usually will put the wash on and then remove some of it with a clean paint brush. By doing this over a flat finish (versus a gloss finish) the base paint colors will change too. The change to the paint is usually uneven which is the desired effect to match the fading and wearing encountered in the real world.
When that was dry, I went back and added some streaking and local fading by putting small dots of oil paint directly on the model. I use white, yellow ocre, raw umber, and tan. Then I dipped my brush in oil thinner (much weaker than paint thinner) and mixed the paint dots. For the streaks I went vertically from top to bottom and for the flat surfaces I used a circular motion. After drying, I did a little bit of specific local washing. This included streaks off some of the handles and mounts, and some fuel streaks where the gas caps are located.
With the washing done, I did a very limited amount of paint chipping using Burnt Umber enamels. I kept this to only the areas most likely to be affected such as around the hatches and parts of the tank where people might walk or place things. It’s almost impossible to see in the photos.
Finally, I did a slight amount of dry brushing with flat black. This was done in areas where rubbing would occur and the paint gets dirt embedded into it. A word of caution, when using a strong color like black, subtly is essential.
Up Next: Stowage |
 |
|
|
