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Modeller Build Logs
Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman |
| By James Wechsler | | Started: | Jan 16, 2006 | | Updated: | Mar 15, 2006 |
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Over the last month or so, I’ve been writing reviews of a number of Formations sets for M4 Shermans. These reviews are of sets I plan to use to build a Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman, circa 1965.
Pakistan was one of the largest post-war users of Shermans, acquiring about 547 as noted in ‘The Sherman Tank in US and Allied Service’ by Steven J. Zaloga. Pakistan fielded a number of variants but most were M4A1 and M4A3 re-manufactured tanks.
The particular variant that I’ll be modeling is an M4A1E4 with the E9 ‘double duckbill’ suspension modification. The E4 designation is one given to tanks that had the 76mm M1 gun retrofitted to the 75mm turret. This was first done during WW2 (much like the fitting of the 17 pounder by the British) but with the availability of newly manufactured 76mm Shermans, it wasn’t used very often. However, to save costs compared to changing out an entire turret, this modification was made during the post-war re-manufacturing of Shermans for sale to foreign countries, including both Pakistan and India!
The E9 modification involved moving the VVSS suspension outboard about 4 inches so an inner and outer row of extended end connectors (duckbills) could be fitted. This resulted in a track almost as wide as that used on the HVSS equipped Shermans. This modification was also developed during WW2 but was not implemented due to the availability of HVSS Shermans. Like the E4 gun modification, the E9 suspension modification was used for post-war re-manufactured Shermans to save costs compared to switching to an HVSS suspension.
The Pakistanis made extensive use of the Sherman in their wars with India (and India also had about 200 Shermans) including their 1965 war where the Shermans were used in a supporting role for the more modern M47 and M48 Pattons. They were even used in the 1971 fighting but only in small numbers (about 40).
What items am I going to use?
Of course I’m going to use the Formations items I’ve been reviewing. Here’s the list:
1. F015 M4A1 with Applique Armor for Italeri Kits
2. F055 M4/M4A1 Sherman Lower Hull
3. F045 Early High Bustle 75mm Turret
4. F039 76mm Sherman Gun Barrels
5. F053 Late Single Piece Cast Double Brake
Transmission
6. F041 Pressed Spoked Sherman Wheels w/Idlers and Spare
This covers most of what’s needed. However, there are a few more items needed to complete the project.
1. RHPS T54E1 US Metal Chevron tracks.
2. RHPS EC-2 Extended End Connectors (Duckbills), 2 sets.
3. Tiger Models TMD353023 M4 Sherman Vision Block TC's
Cupola.
4. Aber 35a34 Sherman HVSS Fenders.
5. Eduard TP028 Light Guards.
In addition, I’ll be using a number of items from the spares box such as the Italeri VVSS bogies, a Dragon muzzle brake from their M4A3(76) Sherman, and drive sprockets from a Tamiya Sherman. I plan to scratch build the E9 suspension modifications and I’ll scrounge around for the other miscellaneous pieces.
Up Next: The Lower Hull |
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| Weathering - Pigments | Mar 6, 2006 |
I have to admit that I’ve become a huge fan of pigments. I’ve got a bunch from a number of different manufacturers. I tend to use the Mig Pigments the most because I like how they adhere to the model. Generally, I use them dry because I haven’t been in love with the results when I mix them with either water or a thinner. I tend to use oil washes to achieve the same effects. For this model, I mixed Mig Productions European Dust, Gulf War Sand, and Industrial Gray together. I purposefully didn’t mix these very thoroughly so that I’d get a little variation when I applied them.
What I’ve found about using pigments is that more is less. I’ve seen a number of models (including one or two on my shelf) that look like they were dipped in dust. I guess technically its accurate but to my eye it just looks washed out.
In using pigments, I tend to take a very different approach for the lower hull versus the rest of the vehicle. For the lower hull, I use a pretty large brush that I’ve cut down to a stub (maybe 1/8 inch of brush). I’ll get a big clump of pigment on it and start covering the hull. I tend to try to roll the brush in my fingers while moving along the hull (an old draftsman technique for keeping a sharp pencil point). The result is a large caking of the pigments with some areas pressed in harder than others.
At this point, the hull looks completely covered in pigment. I’ll blow off the loose stuff and then using my fingers start to rub the hull. This tends to get the flat surfaces a little cleaner while leaving build up in the corners, etc. For tighter areas I use a woman’s eye liner applicator (basically a small sponge on a stick). You can get these at most drug stores for about $5604 each for the Hollywood Gift Bag version or about 20 for $1 for the regular type. The result is a faded, dirty look that hasn’t lost the detail.
I use the same technique for the suspension. However, I also go back and do a little drybrushing right over the pigment. For this model I used Model Master Burnt Umber. The drybrushing on the suspension has the effect of looking like areas where the dust has been rubbed off from wear. It makes a mess of your brush but standard paint thinner will clean it up.
For the rest of the model I use a completely different technique. I use a very small brush, again cut back to about 1/8 inch in length, maybe a little less. For this application, I try to get the pigments directly into the corners, cracks, and other areas where it will accumulate. This also includes around the lift rings, the headlight posts, etc. Doing this keeps the model from getting too dusty and looking faded out. But it does give a sense of being dirty. I’ve found that your imagination will take it from there.
In general, I tend to do more of this technique on the lower parts of the vehicle and get progressively less as I move up. The exception is on flat surfaces like the top of the turret where build up is likely to occur.
Up Next: The Tracks |
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