|
|
Modeller Build Logs
Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman |
| By James Wechsler | | Started: | Jan 16, 2006 | | Updated: | Mar 15, 2006 |
|
Over the last month or so, I’ve been writing reviews of a number of Formations sets for M4 Shermans. These reviews are of sets I plan to use to build a Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman, circa 1965.
Pakistan was one of the largest post-war users of Shermans, acquiring about 547 as noted in ‘The Sherman Tank in US and Allied Service’ by Steven J. Zaloga. Pakistan fielded a number of variants but most were M4A1 and M4A3 re-manufactured tanks.
The particular variant that I’ll be modeling is an M4A1E4 with the E9 ‘double duckbill’ suspension modification. The E4 designation is one given to tanks that had the 76mm M1 gun retrofitted to the 75mm turret. This was first done during WW2 (much like the fitting of the 17 pounder by the British) but with the availability of newly manufactured 76mm Shermans, it wasn’t used very often. However, to save costs compared to changing out an entire turret, this modification was made during the post-war re-manufacturing of Shermans for sale to foreign countries, including both Pakistan and India!
The E9 modification involved moving the VVSS suspension outboard about 4 inches so an inner and outer row of extended end connectors (duckbills) could be fitted. This resulted in a track almost as wide as that used on the HVSS equipped Shermans. This modification was also developed during WW2 but was not implemented due to the availability of HVSS Shermans. Like the E4 gun modification, the E9 suspension modification was used for post-war re-manufactured Shermans to save costs compared to switching to an HVSS suspension.
The Pakistanis made extensive use of the Sherman in their wars with India (and India also had about 200 Shermans) including their 1965 war where the Shermans were used in a supporting role for the more modern M47 and M48 Pattons. They were even used in the 1971 fighting but only in small numbers (about 40).
What items am I going to use?
Of course I’m going to use the Formations items I’ve been reviewing. Here’s the list:
1. F015 M4A1 with Applique Armor for Italeri Kits
2. F055 M4/M4A1 Sherman Lower Hull
3. F045 Early High Bustle 75mm Turret
4. F039 76mm Sherman Gun Barrels
5. F053 Late Single Piece Cast Double Brake
Transmission
6. F041 Pressed Spoked Sherman Wheels w/Idlers and Spare
This covers most of what’s needed. However, there are a few more items needed to complete the project.
1. RHPS T54E1 US Metal Chevron tracks.
2. RHPS EC-2 Extended End Connectors (Duckbills), 2 sets.
3. Tiger Models TMD353023 M4 Sherman Vision Block TC's
Cupola.
4. Aber 35a34 Sherman HVSS Fenders.
5. Eduard TP028 Light Guards.
In addition, I’ll be using a number of items from the spares box such as the Italeri VVSS bogies, a Dragon muzzle brake from their M4A3(76) Sherman, and drive sprockets from a Tamiya Sherman. I plan to scratch build the E9 suspension modifications and I’ll scrounge around for the other miscellaneous pieces.
Up Next: The Lower Hull |
|
|
|
| The Tracks | Mar 7, 2006 |
Putting together the tracks for the model is first and foremost a math problem. There are 5 parts per link. The link itself, two end connectors, and two extended end connectors (duckbills). A standard hull Sherman has 79 links per track but with the E9 modification, it looks like I’ll need 80 links. So that’s 5 parts per link X 80 links per track X 2 tracks for a total of 800 parts! Ouch. No matter how you slice and dice it, that’s a whole lot of parts that need assembling.
Fortunately, the RHPS tracks are designed in a way that you don’t have to clean up pin marks. In addition, if you use a good sprue cutter, you can avoid clean up entirely. Trust me, that’s a big deal.
I started by assembling the basic tracks. Having used RHPS tracks before, I’ve found that by dipping the pins on each link in white glue the tracks ends up fully workable and yet the end connectors don’t fall off. I guess everyone has to figure out the best technique for doing this assembly but for me, I’ve found that I can hold the tracks in such a way that I can touch the pins with the glue using a toothpick and then drop on the end connector. Thus, I can assemble the whole length of track at once.
With the tracks built and dry, I then started to add the duckbills. Since the tracks are completely injection molded you can use good old Testor’s tube glue to attach them. Makes a huge difference in how long it takes. I like to leave off a few duckbills since they typically get broken off during use. Also, I make a point of not getting them all perfectly aligned since reference photos show them to be bent at all kind of angles. One note, if you do this and take your models to competitions, be sure to note that you’ve done it on purpose. Judges will often mistake it for poor workmanship.
While putting on the duckbills I did run into one serious problem. I came up short. Really short. Like 40 duckbills short. I’ve used the RHPS duckbills many times and there’s always a number that are broken and/or mis-molded. But in the past I’ve always ended up with extras. However, the two sets I used on this model had an extraordinary number of badly molded parts. Even after I used all of the extras I’d saved, I was still 20 short. Fortunately I had another set for a different project so I stole 20 and I’ll worry about that project later.
I’m not big on ragging on manufacturers but coming up that short is just not acceptable. Some level of quality control is required. The duckbills are $16 per set and I used 2 sets so I paid $32. Now I’ve stolen 20 more duckbills from yet another $16 sets. Irratating. That said, this is the first time I’ve had a problem with RHPS tracks so I’ll continue to buy them. I just hope I don’t run into this problem again.
Ok, enough ranting. Once I got the tracks assembled, I painted them in Model Master Raw Sienna. I’ve found this color works well as a base color to represent the rust/dirt color typically seen on tracks. I then did a little drybrushing with Aluminum and gave the whole model a coat of Testor’s Dullcoat. I painted the rubber pads with Model Master Dark Drab which I’ve found to be a good representation of worn rubber. Afterwards, I gave the tracks a healthy wash in raw umber oil paint.
Finally, I used the same pigment method that I used for the lower hull. I did a final bit of drybrushing using a dark metallic color and also rubbed the chevron part of the track with my thumb until some of the earlier metal drybrushing showed through.
Up Next: Final Assembly |
 |
|
|
