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Modeller Build Logs
Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman |
| By James Wechsler | | Started: | Jan 16, 2006 | | Updated: | Mar 15, 2006 |
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Over the last month or so, I’ve been writing reviews of a number of Formations sets for M4 Shermans. These reviews are of sets I plan to use to build a Pakistani M4A1E4 Sherman, circa 1965.
Pakistan was one of the largest post-war users of Shermans, acquiring about 547 as noted in ‘The Sherman Tank in US and Allied Service’ by Steven J. Zaloga. Pakistan fielded a number of variants but most were M4A1 and M4A3 re-manufactured tanks.
The particular variant that I’ll be modeling is an M4A1E4 with the E9 ‘double duckbill’ suspension modification. The E4 designation is one given to tanks that had the 76mm M1 gun retrofitted to the 75mm turret. This was first done during WW2 (much like the fitting of the 17 pounder by the British) but with the availability of newly manufactured 76mm Shermans, it wasn’t used very often. However, to save costs compared to changing out an entire turret, this modification was made during the post-war re-manufacturing of Shermans for sale to foreign countries, including both Pakistan and India!
The E9 modification involved moving the VVSS suspension outboard about 4 inches so an inner and outer row of extended end connectors (duckbills) could be fitted. This resulted in a track almost as wide as that used on the HVSS equipped Shermans. This modification was also developed during WW2 but was not implemented due to the availability of HVSS Shermans. Like the E4 gun modification, the E9 suspension modification was used for post-war re-manufactured Shermans to save costs compared to switching to an HVSS suspension.
The Pakistanis made extensive use of the Sherman in their wars with India (and India also had about 200 Shermans) including their 1965 war where the Shermans were used in a supporting role for the more modern M47 and M48 Pattons. They were even used in the 1971 fighting but only in small numbers (about 40).
What items am I going to use?
Of course I’m going to use the Formations items I’ve been reviewing. Here’s the list:
1. F015 M4A1 with Applique Armor for Italeri Kits
2. F055 M4/M4A1 Sherman Lower Hull
3. F045 Early High Bustle 75mm Turret
4. F039 76mm Sherman Gun Barrels
5. F053 Late Single Piece Cast Double Brake
Transmission
6. F041 Pressed Spoked Sherman Wheels w/Idlers and Spare
This covers most of what’s needed. However, there are a few more items needed to complete the project.
1. RHPS T54E1 US Metal Chevron tracks.
2. RHPS EC-2 Extended End Connectors (Duckbills), 2 sets.
3. Tiger Models TMD353023 M4 Sherman Vision Block TC's
Cupola.
4. Aber 35a34 Sherman HVSS Fenders.
5. Eduard TP028 Light Guards.
In addition, I’ll be using a number of items from the spares box such as the Italeri VVSS bogies, a Dragon muzzle brake from their M4A3(76) Sherman, and drive sprockets from a Tamiya Sherman. I plan to scratch build the E9 suspension modifications and I’ll scrounge around for the other miscellaneous pieces.
Up Next: The Lower Hull |
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| The E9 Suspension Spacers | Jan 18, 2006 |
The Pakistani Sherman I’m modeling has a suspension modification to allow an inner and outer row of extended end connectors (duckbills) to lower the ground pressure and improve off-road performance. This modification was given the experimental designation of E9.
Mainly, this modification involved moving the entire suspension outboard about 4 inches. This translates to 0.114 inches in 1/35 scale (about 3 mm). The VVSS was moved outboard by the addition of a spacer between the hull and the suspension.
One of the biggest concerns I have is to make sure that all parts of the suspension are shifted outboard the same amount so that the tracks don’t end up canted. To do this, I decided to leave the VVSS mounting plates on the hull (cutting off the bolt heads) and add the spacers to them. This is reversed from what was done on the real tank but with a little putty, I’ll get the same result.
Another big concern is to make sure that the spacers are far enough outboard that the duckbills don’t end up touching the inner hull. I ended up using two sheets of 0.06 inch Styrene plastic glued together (0.12 inches) to make sure I’d have a little extra clearance.
I simply made a template from the hull and then cutout the plastic. Using my punch set, I replicated the bolt pattern on the plates and drilled the locating hole. Note, if you don’t have a punch set, you can carefully remove the bolt heads from the Formations hull and then reattach them.
I also had to remove the lower mounting flange on the bottom of the hull since it’s actually part of the suspension and is therefore also moved outboard. Fortunately, I’d saved a left over set from an old Dragon kit so I just glued it on the bottom of the spacer.
Up Next: The E9 Idler Spacers
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