Char B 1 bis |
| By Michael Bedard |
| Started: | Jun 17, 2006 | | Updated: | Apr 20, 2007 |
|
Well I finally got the Tamiya Char B in hand and I am anxious to get it started. At the start of this BLOG there are no aftermarket kits available for the kit. I will, oh is it possible, build the kit out-of-the-box. Paul sent to me a reference book written both in French (for Ontario Canadians) and English (for all of us south of the border).
My ambition with this build is tom see if there are any quirks about the kit and show how I build up a kit. If any after market kits appear after the build is started I may add them.
It never fails for me. When I spend big bucks on a resin kit, avoid starting it and then finally decide to build it a plastic kit comes out. I bought MB Models Char B back in 1989 at an IPMS national. I held on to it until about 1992 and decided to start it. It has been sitting around since then waiting to be finished. Each year in January I go through my stash of kits and list 'to do' for the year. Well I decided to pull out the ole MB kit and make it a 'to do' kit this year. Wouldn't you know it, Tamiya (of all companies) comes out with one in plastic. To start out this BLOG I have posted what the MB kit looks like and at what stage it is. Well a Char B is on the 'to do' list but I'm pretty sure it won't be th MB Models kit.
|
|
|
|
| The Last Chapter | Apr 20, 2007 |
| Well, it's complete. The last chapter shows the antenna base. Some of the details that were added using Evergreen strip and a punch and die tool are evident. Some modelers have dented and bent the base but I decided to leave mine fairly pristine. Tamiya suggests that you flaten their orange but... more |
| Adding Mud | Apr 17, 2007 |
This is probably the most favorite part of finishing for me. First picture shows the materials I use to create the mud. I make a mixture of Hudson & Allen mud. Gamblin pigments, static grass and PollyScale airbrush thinner. A final addition for looking damp is using turps and linseed oil.
Steps... more |
| Adding Oil Stains | Apr 14, 2007 |
It has been quite a while since I've added to this BLOG. I have been trying to get a M51 Isherman done for a publisher in England for the Six-day war anniversary. That will be posted soon.
The Char is very close to being finished. In this chapter I show how the oil and fuel stains are added.... more |
| Scratches, Paint Chips and Rust | Feb 5, 2007 |
| At this stage of the weathering I start adding scrapes, chips and rust spots. Photo A shows how I use a Series 7 Winsor/Newton brush and Vallejo paints to create scratches in the paint. I try to find a slightly lighter color of the base paint to create scratches and chips. By observing real vehicles... more |
| Faded Paint | Jan 26, 2007 |
| This photo of the Char shows the final results of using the weathering process using the oil paints and streaks of color. It gives an overall faded, dusty look to the tank. Next will be chips, scratches and rust. |
| Weathering Painted Surfaces | Jan 3, 2007 |
| Starting of the weathering process consists of fading and streaking the paint. I believe Mig calls these ‘filters’ but I have been taught from my many years as an artist that it is called a ‘glaze’. Either way it is not a wash to depict the shadow areas or lines of hatches. First step in adding the... more |
| Finishing the Tools Pt. 2 | Dec 31, 2006 |
| This is the final stage of painting the tools. The metal parts have been drybrushed with PollyScale graphite and rubbed with a No. 2 pencil to show wear. First picture (A) shows the wooden handle parts painted with Vallejo Desert Yellow. Second photograph (B)shows the grain added using Winsor/Newton... more |
| Starting the weathering | Dec 28, 2006 |
| This chapter I started the weathering process. Since it is difficult to weather under the fenders and tracks I decided to weather the area prior to adding the tracks and fenders. Materials used were Hudson & Allen mud, Gamblin pigments (burnt seinna, raw umber and yellow orche), PollyScale airbrush... more |
| Finishing the Tools - Part 1 | Dec 19, 2006 |
Here are the steps I have taken to finish the tools
‘A’ shows the application of Alclad steel over Tamiya flat black. The wooden parts aren’t as heavily painted.
‘B’ is a coat of AIM Products ‘Real Rust’.
‘C’ is a mixture of Bragdon old rust, Winsor/Newton raw umber watercolor and Ox Gall... more |
| Rusting the Exhaust | Dec 17, 2006 |
Here are the steps I have taken to weather the exhaust.
‘A’ shows the application of Alclad steel over Tamiya flat black.
‘B’ is a coat of AIM Products ‘Real Rust’.
‘C’ is a mixture of Bragdon old rust, Winsor/Newton raw umber watercolor and Ox Gall Liquid.
‘D’ 2 coats of Rustall are the... more |
| Finished Paint and Decals | Dec 6, 2006 |
| Here is the next installment of my Blog for track-link. At this stage the Char B has had a wash of Winsor/Newton oil paints. Lamp black was used in the areas of brown and green. Raw umber was used in the ochre areas. Turpenoid odorless turpentine was used to dilute the oil paints. Winsor/Newton... more |
| Applying Wash | Dec 4, 2006 |
| This is my preferred method of applying a wash to my vehicles. First step is to coat the surface with just a damp layer of Turpenoid (a odorless turpentine). It shouldn't be too wet. Then using Turpenoid and Winsor/Newton oil paints to thin the paint I touch the areas where I want to place a... more |
| Base Coat Paint | Dec 2, 2006 |
| After all the masks were constructed, applied and then painted the moment of truth was ready. THis is the Char after the masks were removed. The black out line was painted with a mixture of Vallejo Black Grey and Black. All the other colors were created using the painting guide that came with the... more |
| Applying Mask | Nov 11, 2006 |
| Trying to have enough photo coverage with the masking part of the project dictated that the sequence was split into two submissions. This composite shows removing the mask from the cutting matt and placement on the tank. |
| Creating Masks | Nov 5, 2006 |
| This composite photo shows how I’m planning on recreating the Renault paint scheme. I took the Tamiya color guide, scanned the pictures and enlarged them to fit the model. I placed Tamiya tape on a cutting matt and then placed the photocopy over the tape. This works really great for the flat surfaces... more |
| Starting the Paint | Nov 3, 2006 |
| I have finally been able to get back to the Char B. This composite photo shows two sides of the model sprayed with the ochre color. The color was mixed according to the Tamiya formula. I sprayed the copper exhaust covers without priming the metal first. I quickly found out that was a mistake because... more |
| Ready for Paint | Oct 7, 2006 |
| The detailing for the most part is finished. Here is the tank ready for painting. Doing the camouflage should prove both challenging and fun. |
| Thinned Fenders | Oct 4, 2006 |
| The fenders were thinned both front and rear. A motor tool was used first to grind the edges down then scrapped with a hobby knife. A final sanding with fine sanding sticks finished the edges. There are now available photo-etched fenders to replace the kit parts. |
| Hull Details | Sep 28, 2006 |
Several little details have been added using reference from magazines, Internet research, Trackstory book and other modeler’s models. Details shown here are:
A. Opening of mud chute on side sponson. I did this after the model was assembled by first drilling several holes then shaping the hole using... more |
| Radio Mast Details | Sep 24, 2006 |
| The radio mast has some detailing for the bracing added using Evergreen styrene strips and a punch and die set. The wire for the antenna is thin solder. Also not the small handles for the grease covers added on the lower hull side. These were made of thin brass rod. |
| Exhaust Shrouds | Sep 22, 2006 |
| The exhaust shrouds were replaced with sheet brass. The brass was annealed then rolled around a dowel and finally placed over the kit piece and burnished. The burnisher is an artist printmaking burnisher. Compare the kit pieces and the sheet brass. Many P.E. companies offer these pieces as part... more |
| Screws on Turret | Sep 20, 2006 |
| I mentioned in an earlier post about screw heads. A close-up here shows some of the screw heads that I used. While at the IPMS Nats I picked up a product from Lion Marc that are miniature brass screws and appropriate sized drill bit. You drill the hole and then insert the screw. A lot neater than using... more |
| Turret Details | Sep 17, 2006 |
| Here is the turret with all the details that I’m going to add. As shown in a previous post the weld bead is added along with casting numbers and a cast texture. While at the IPMS Nats I was able to pick up the product ‘Cast-A-Coat’. This is the first time that I used it and it will take some practice... more |
| Turret Weld Bead | Aug 20, 2006 |
| One part of this update has been posted already. AS you can see to make a weld bead my latest technique is to start with a thin styrene strip. Second step is to texture the bead using a soldering iron. I use a reistat to reduce the heat other wise it is too hot and burns through the material. Fianally... more |
| Removing handles | Aug 16, 2006 |
| On line reference plus some of my own show that there are no handles (as molded on on the Tamiya kit) in period Char Bs. I first used a snipper to remove the heaviest piece, a scrapper blade to finish the excess and then sanded smooth. |
| Added Detail - Turret seam | Aug 14, 2006 |
| There seems to be either a casting seam or weld bead along the turret. This was added using .011 styrene strip that will be later textured. |
| Filled areas | Aug 12, 2006 |
| I had one area that needed filling because of not quite exact fit, point out by the knife. Also notice the area around the driver's hood that needs filling. |
| Added Detail - Hull rivets | Aug 10, 2006 |
| There is a line of rivets missing along the top of the hull under the tracks. There are some cross rivets and some along the edge of the hull but I didn't add these because they are hidden by the tracks. There is also an outside mud scrapper added. An additional one is also on the inside but once... more |
| Added detail - 75mm Gun Mantlet | Aug 8, 2006 |
| I've strated to add some missing detail to the kit. First installment was to use the Historex hex punch and die to add six bolts to the 75mm mantlet and a pig's tail lifting hook made of brass wire. |
| Weathering the Tracks | Jul 31, 2006 |
Tracks for the Char B are a real departure for Tamiya. The assembly is super easy. Main problem is the little mark on the track face. I test painted it first to see if would show and found out that it did. I spent a lot of time using a fine sanding stick to remove the spot on all 122 shoes!
This... more |
| Major Components Assembled | Jul 29, 2006 |
| The Char B is starting to come together. Here the tank has all the major components assembled. With the help of the Trackstory book and on line reference I will proceed to see if any additional detailing is needed. The fit of the parts is exceptional. The only problem I hade with fit was on the front... more |
| Idler | Jul 28, 2006 |
| After doing a lot of looking on line and in what books I have of the Char B1 bis I came to the conclusion that the idler should have the round marks facing out. Every one of the preserved vehicles that I found on line has the marks facing out. Tamiya's instructions have you take notice that the... more |
| Road Wheels | Jul 26, 2006 |
| I've read that some people glue the road wheels to the carrier to either hide the nibs or ease of assembly. As I mentioned earlier I figured a way to easily assemble the road wheels and cleaning up the nibs. After all that you can see they are all hidden by the side skirts. |
| Scraped Paint | Jul 24, 2006 |
| If you use any oils like I do it is imprtant to scrape off paint from mating surfaces to assure a strong bond between parts. Here you can see the mating surfaces of lower hull part #D16, roadwheel carrier part # A1 and idler and sprocket wheels scraped off on mating surfaces. I had to do this on several... more |
| Fixing the Outer Road Wheels | Jul 22, 2006 |
| As already mentioned the outer roadwheels have a small nib to remove. I first used a chisel blade to remove the nib than sanded with a fine sanding board. The wheel was than touched up with paint. Some people have remarked about the difficulty of adding the roadwheels to the lower hull. I placed all... more |
| Pencil for Wear | Jul 20, 2006 |
| Road heels, sprockets, idlers and tracks that are metal all get polished on a tank. To show these wear areas I paint PollyScale Graphite and when dry to give a good metallic sheen qand polish the surface I rub the wear area with a No. 2 pencil. It gives a steel-like effect without being out of scale... more |
| Pesky road wheels | Jul 12, 2006 |
| I don't know why but Tamiya made the outer road wheels with a small tab that needs to be removed. Compared to the inner road wheels that are connected to the sprue on just the edge. Must be because of the axle that is on the road wheel. I tried first using a sharp knife to cut off the piece but... more |
| Drybrushing | Jul 10, 2006 |
| It seems that I must be old school when it comes to painting because I still use drybrushing. As I already have mentioned I use oil colors a lot for intitial drybrushing because it helps eliminate any sharp edges that may remain from the washes. I use washes to enhance shadows on the vehicle and drybrushing... more |
| Drying Box | Jul 6, 2006 |
| I use oil paints a lot for an intial drybrushing. This technique I learned from Shep Paine called a 'drying box' for oils. Use a low watt bulb (here a 25w) inside a box and set it for over night with the cover on. The heat from the bulb will force the oils to dry and dry flatter than just... more |
| Pre-painting | Jun 28, 2006 |
| When I build a model I like to pre-paint all the inaccessable parts as much as I can prior to assembling. A lot of times I paint suspension parts on the tree. I will also wash and drybrush these parts on the tree also. A lot of parts usually need to be touched up because of attachment to the sprue.... more |
| MB Models Char B 1 Bis | Jun 17, 2006 |
| Here is the MB kit. Clunky resin but the dimensions are very accurate. The biggest problem with the kit was the lack of small separate details and air bubbles. There are no road wheels. The resin tracks were unusable. About 1997 I wrote to Mike Bishop asking if there still was any possiblity of... more |
