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Modeller Build Logs
Char B 1 bis |
| By Michael Bedard | | Started: | Jun 17, 2006 | | Updated: | Apr 20, 2007 |
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Well I finally got the Tamiya Char B in hand and I am anxious to get it started. At the start of this BLOG there are no aftermarket kits available for the kit. I will, oh is it possible, build the kit out-of-the-box. Paul sent to me a reference book written both in French (for Ontario Canadians) and English (for all of us south of the border).
My ambition with this build is tom see if there are any quirks about the kit and show how I build up a kit. If any after market kits appear after the build is started I may add them.
It never fails for me. When I spend big bucks on a resin kit, avoid starting it and then finally decide to build it a plastic kit comes out. I bought MB Models Char B back in 1989 at an IPMS national. I held on to it until about 1992 and decided to start it. It has been sitting around since then waiting to be finished. Each year in January I go through my stash of kits and list 'to do' for the year. Well I decided to pull out the ole MB kit and make it a 'to do' kit this year. Wouldn't you know it, Tamiya (of all companies) comes out with one in plastic. To start out this BLOG I have posted what the MB kit looks like and at what stage it is. Well a Char B is on the 'to do' list but I'm pretty sure it won't be th MB Models kit.
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| Finished Paint and Decals | Dec 6, 2006 |
| Here is the next installment of my Blog for track-link. At this stage the Char B has had a wash of Winsor/Newton oil paints. Lamp black was used in the areas of brown and green. Raw umber was used in the ochre areas. Turpenoid odorless turpentine was used to dilute the oil paints. Winsor/Newton oil paints were mixed to match the various camouflage colors and given a heavy drybrush. This in turn was placed in my drying box overnight. Vallejo colors were used for the more delicate and final drybrushing. I view washes and drybrushing not as a part of weathering but a part of painting. Much like shadows and highlights in figure painting or my regular oil portraits. I used Archer Dry transfers for the markings. After I contacted Woody about the problem about the transfers sticking to the backing paper he promptly sent a replacement. Woody is extremely good at servicing his customers. The instructions weren’t clear about placement of the markings on the right side so it is pretty much conjecture. I did have a bit of problem getting the transfers to lie down over the rivets. About the only thing that came close was using Champs railroad decal setting solution. I will need more experience using Archer transfers over rivets, PollyScale clear flat was sprayed over the vehicle to unify all the various surfaces. |
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