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Modeller Build Logs
Tasca Sherman Firefly Vc |
| By James Wechsler | | Started: | Dec 1, 2006 | | Updated: | Apr 29, 2007 |
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OK, I’ll admit it, when I got the opportunity to do a blog using Tasca’s new Firefly kit I was giddy with excitement. I’ve got Tasca’s Pz. II Luchs, and I’ve built about three of their Sherman suspension sets, and two of their 0.050 cal MG sets. Tasca has yet to disappoint.
Now as a total Shermanaholic, I’ll admit that the thought of building a Sherman model that requires only a little bit of extra work is hard to fathom. I mean what is Sherman modeling without a bucket of aftermarket resin parts, replacement tracks, and a huge photoetch sheet? It’s … like modeling German armor (noooo don’t say it’s true)! There, I’ve said it. 2006 has been an allied modeler’s dream and Tasca’s Firefly is the grand finally of the fireworks show.
But in many ways I’m glad to be doing a blog using a great kit. My last two blogs involved extensive use of resin conversion and scratch built parts to make unusual Shermans. So they were heavily focused on construction tasks. Yet I’ve noticed that most of the comments I receive when I post photos of my models are requests for more information on how I do my painting, weathering, and groundwork. So for this blog I will spend less time on the construction tasks and more time on the painting, finishing and techniques for making simple ground work.
Up Next: The Construction Starts.
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| Blending | Feb 2, 2007 |
Blending is a simple process I use to help get the different camouflage colors to seem more integrated together. It is especially helpful for vehicles with black as part of the camouflage pattern since black tends to have a very stark look it. This process can also be used for monotone paint schemes where the markings seem to have too much contrast.
As I mentioned, the process is extremely simple. In order to achieve the effect I airbrush some Tamiya Acrylic Buff color thinned to a ratio of about 1 part paint to 9 parts thinner.
I airbrush this with the airbrush pretty wide open and from a distance of about 1 foot (0.3 meters). It goes on almost like a mist and the key is to not get the model ‘wet’. Trust me, it’s easier to do than to describe.
The first time you do this on the model, you’ll think nothing has happened. That means you’re doing it right. Continue to apply coats one after the other in one sitting until you see the model colors start to fade a bit. That means you’re done. Don’t over do it or the model will be too washed out. Usually about 5 or 6 coats is about right.
After it dries, the model should have a more subdued look but the overall colors should still be the same. The photos really don’t show this too well but the effect is very noticeable.
Some of you will note that this process is the exact same method as adding dust to a model during the final weathering stages. You are correct. One difference is that it’s applied in a much lighter amount and all over the model. The other difference is that it’s applied before the filters, washes, streaking and stains. In fact, I’ll be using the same process to ‘dust’ the model later in the build.
Up Next: Stowage and Details |
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