|
|
Modeller Build Logs
Tasca Sherman Firefly Vc |
| By James Wechsler | | Started: | Dec 1, 2006 | | Updated: | Apr 29, 2007 |
|
OK, I’ll admit it, when I got the opportunity to do a blog using Tasca’s new Firefly kit I was giddy with excitement. I’ve got Tasca’s Pz. II Luchs, and I’ve built about three of their Sherman suspension sets, and two of their 0.050 cal MG sets. Tasca has yet to disappoint.
Now as a total Shermanaholic, I’ll admit that the thought of building a Sherman model that requires only a little bit of extra work is hard to fathom. I mean what is Sherman modeling without a bucket of aftermarket resin parts, replacement tracks, and a huge photoetch sheet? It’s … like modeling German armor (noooo don’t say it’s true)! There, I’ve said it. 2006 has been an allied modeler’s dream and Tasca’s Firefly is the grand finally of the fireworks show.
But in many ways I’m glad to be doing a blog using a great kit. My last two blogs involved extensive use of resin conversion and scratch built parts to make unusual Shermans. So they were heavily focused on construction tasks. Yet I’ve noticed that most of the comments I receive when I post photos of my models are requests for more information on how I do my painting, weathering, and groundwork. So for this blog I will spend less time on the construction tasks and more time on the painting, finishing and techniques for making simple ground work.
Up Next: The Construction Starts.
|
|
|
|
| The Filter | Feb 9, 2007 |
Am I the only one who’s confused as to what is a filter versus a wash? I’ve read all the books and understand the process but I just can’t understand the differences as described in many of the how to books. So I’ve come up with a much more simple distinction for my own mind.
In both cases the process involves applying highly thinned paint to the model. So for me to keep it straight, if the model has a gloss finish, then I’m applying a wash. In this application, the primary finish of the model is not drastically altered and the thinned paint collects in the cracks and corners and adds an accent to the existing finish.
If the thinned paint is applied to a model with a flat coat, then it’s a filter. In this case the primary finish color is altered (stained?) because some of the thinned paint is absorbed into the flat coat and causes a change in tone and hue to the primary finish.
So using this definition, I apply filters since I always do so over a flat coated model. For the thinned paint I use Windsor Newton Oil Paints which are readily available in art supply stores. I use the bigger, less expensive tubes since I really don’t need the quality of the little tubes which are twice as much (i.e. 4 times as much by volume). I thin this with turpeniod because it won’t attack the model’s paint so I don’t have to worry about getting big puddles of it on the model. I usually use an artist’s disposable paper (again sold inexpensively at the art supply stores) and just squeeze a little paint out and make a puddle with the turpeniod.
I’ll typically apply the mix with a brush across a section of the model usually working from bottom to top. Then I’ll go back with a brush (normally the same one) and remove the excess. For vertical surfaces I’ll make sure to remove the excess by using up to down strokes so if I do leave any streaks they’ll appear to be rain type streaks and not some obvious mistake.
Typically I use only one filter made with Raw Umber paint. Sometimes other colors are warranted but for the most part this seems sufficient.
Hopefully you’ll notice that the photo in this chapter is very similar to the one in the previous chapter. That’s the point. The filter is intended to cause a subtle effect and not be an eye popping experience. It’s hard to see but there is a bit of a highlighting effect much like what occurs with a wash but to a much more subtle extent. Also, the dry brushing is toned down since the color change is more pronounced for lighted colors.
Up Next: Streaking |
 |
|
|
