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Modeller Build Logs
M51 Isherman |
| By Michael Bedard | | Started: | May 19, 2007 | | Updated: | Jul 27, 2007 |
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June 5, 2007 marks the 40th anniversary of the Six-Day-War that is still having repercussions felt around the world even today. I was asked to write an article for Military Modelcraft International to mark this event. Well, between my lack of speed constructing my model, my lack of computer technical skills sending things international and the slow speed of mail my article unfortunately missing the April deadline for publication. Tony Little the editor has mentioned that the article will however appear in the August issue. I asked Tony if it would be alright to publish a BLOG on track-link about the M51 build and he agreed. He mentioned that the on-line BLOG would probably be more detailed in nature due to the restriction of space in the magazine. I would appreciate helping Tony out by at least purchasing the issue when it is published.
In honor of the Six-Day-War I decided to build the M51 Isherman (someone has stated that there is no such things as an Isherman). For me, a Sherman nut, it is the ultimate statement as far as the Sherman tank goes. I purchased the DML M51 shortly after it was introduced in 1997. I started the model around 2000 or so and it sat around for some time. This BLOG focuses on the original issue and what I have done to detail the kit. many of the parts I bought or made myself are present on the latest Premier version of DML's M51.I am sure that some of the Shermanaholic details I addedwould be appropriate for the newer release as well. Besides the DML kit I also bought the Aber fender set for HVSS Sherman and Eduard's photo-etch set (35182) that was meant for the Academy kit.
Hope you enjoy the BLOG and that there is something useful for your own model. |
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| Wash and drybrush | Jul 12, 2007 |
| These next set of pictures show the base coat being enhanced with a wash and drybrushing. Picture 1 shows the wash added to the vehicle. I use a wash to enhance the shadows and low-lying areas of the vehicle and it is not a form of weathering. At this point some of the edges are a bit rough. For a light colored vehicle such as this I use Winsor/Newton raw umber artist oil paint thinned with Turpenoid for the wash. Turpenoid is an odorless type of turpentine that I purchase from local art supply stores. The process I use for drybrushing is in two stages. First stage is to match the base color by mixing Winsor/Newton artist oil paints. I add to the oil paint base color a product called ‘Liquin’ that helps enhance the flow of the oil paint and drying time. I usually create more than is needed for a particular project and have found out that I could save the extra color by placing the color into a piece of aluminum foil and wrapping the paint tightly so that it is not exposed to the air. Much like oil paint in a tube it will stay useable for a long time. I have some of these little pack for up to 2 years now and still usable. I use a wide, soft brush to apply the oil paint drybrush. This stage gets rid of any hard edges left by the wash. I usually place all the parts in a drying box over night to speed up the drying of the oil paints. Final drybrushing to enhance the light shining off of protrusions and details is done with Vallejo acrylic paints. Using the acrylics I use a stiffer flat brush starting with a heavier drybrush with the darker colors and ending with a light touch with the lighter colors. In this instance I used in order Vallejo Green Brown, Green Ochre and Buff. I used Vallejo German Camouflage Black Brown for the rubber sections of the suspension. This looks very close to rubber to my eyes and isn’t quite as much a stark contrast as flat black. Pictures 2 and 3 show the final drybrushing. You will also notice that a base color of Vallejo Khaki has been added to the mantlet cover. This will be painted much the same way I paint figures using Vallejo paints to create shadows and highlights on the fabric folds. |
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