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Modeller Build Logs
M51 Isherman |
| By Michael Bedard | | Started: | May 19, 2007 | | Updated: | Jul 27, 2007 |
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June 5, 2007 marks the 40th anniversary of the Six-Day-War that is still having repercussions felt around the world even today. I was asked to write an article for Military Modelcraft International to mark this event. Well, between my lack of speed constructing my model, my lack of computer technical skills sending things international and the slow speed of mail my article unfortunately missing the April deadline for publication. Tony Little the editor has mentioned that the article will however appear in the August issue. I asked Tony if it would be alright to publish a BLOG on track-link about the M51 build and he agreed. He mentioned that the on-line BLOG would probably be more detailed in nature due to the restriction of space in the magazine. I would appreciate helping Tony out by at least purchasing the issue when it is published.
In honor of the Six-Day-War I decided to build the M51 Isherman (someone has stated that there is no such things as an Isherman). For me, a Sherman nut, it is the ultimate statement as far as the Sherman tank goes. I purchased the DML M51 shortly after it was introduced in 1997. I started the model around 2000 or so and it sat around for some time. This BLOG focuses on the original issue and what I have done to detail the kit. many of the parts I bought or made myself are present on the latest Premier version of DML's M51.I am sure that some of the Shermanaholic details I addedwould be appropriate for the newer release as well. Besides the DML kit I also bought the Aber fender set for HVSS Sherman and Eduard's photo-etch set (35182) that was meant for the Academy kit.
Hope you enjoy the BLOG and that there is something useful for your own model. |
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| Completing the tracks | Jul 16, 2007 |
Finishing the tracks will be very similar to finishing the tools. There will be 2 separate chapters one on the tracks and one on the tools. Where there is a difference I will point that out in the chapter on finishing the tools.
First picture shows all the materials I use to finish the tracks. Not shown in the picture are the Alclad Steel, PollyScale Graphite and Tamiya Flat Black used to paint the tracks. AIM Products ‘Real Rust’ is a material I found in a local hobby shop years ago. I’m not sure if the product is still available or not. It appears to be actual rust suspended in an alcohol base. The square container contains Bragdon ‘Old Rust’ pigment. Winsor/Newton Ox Gall liquid and Raw Umber watercolor, Rustall and a #2 pencil are also shown here that are used to finish the tracks. Picture 2 shows how I assemble link-to-link tracks. I assemble the tracks in sections and make sure the idler and sprocket wheels are removable or movable to attach the tracks after they have been finished. I like to paint the tracks separate because I just can’t reach areas between road wheels and the likes if they are assembled onto the vehicle. Picture 2 shows the base coat (and sort of a primer) of Tamiya Flat Black acrylic paint. Picture 3 we see the tracks painted Alclad Steel. These have to be the best paints for metallic surfaces. Picture 4 shows a coat of AIM ‘Real Rust’. Don’t brush back and forth with this product because it will lift off ANY type of paint. Just use a brush and quickly brush once with the AIM and let it settle. The product is very thin so have an area where you can set the tracks to allow any run off. Picture 5 is the application of a mixture of Winsor/Newton watercolor, Ox Gall liquid and Bragdon old rust. This mixture gives a real nice old rust look and texture. The Ox Gall liquid helps the mixture flow and the Bragdon rust gives the texture. The watercolor is a great binder. You can really rub this concoction into the tracks to get a good coverage. Picture 6 shows a coat of Rustall that blends everything together. Like the AIM product don’t agitate the Rustall as it will lift off any paint. Just apply and let it set. The last picture (pic 7) shows the tracks as the wear areas have been drybrush with PollyScale Graphite (Vallejo steel works well also) and rubbed with a #2 pencil. Rubbing with the pencil smoothes out the wear areas as well as giving a metallic sheen. I don’t like silver or rubbing Fruilmodel tracks as the silver is too bright for this scale (at least in my opinion for whatever that is worth). The inner surfaces of the T-80 tracks have rubber pads and this is shown painted Tamiya Flat Black.
Next chapter is on the tools.
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