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Modeller Build Logs
Tristar Panzer 38(t) Ausf B |
| By Brian Bocchino | | Started: | Aug 14, 2007 | | Updated: | Sep 22, 2007 |
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German Panzer Kpfw 38(t) Ausf B / Panzerbefehlswagen Pz BfWg 38(t) Ausf B
When Paul Owen offer me a chance to do a BLOG I jumped at the chance hoping that it would kick start me into building on a more active basis by having made a commitment. The kit is number is Tristar 026, Tristar Pz 38(t) Ausf B. The kit can be built as either a regular line tank or as a Command version.
When the kit first arrived, I admit to being a little disappointed at such a tiny box. However, Tristar has packed the box fairly full of parts. Inside are approximately 300 parts, a small fret of Photo Etch (PE), 200+ individual track links, and a small sprue of clear visor parts. Paul also sent me a Lion Marc barrel, product number LM10007 to use in the build.
As customarily for me, I start by looking over the instruction sheets taking note of optional parts, general flow of the construction, and places where I intend to deviate. Beyond the option for the command variant, there are not many optional areas. What does exist is an option between On Vehicle Equipment (OVE) or Stowage boxes which includes two sets of fenders depending on which option you choose. Also is the option of smoke launchers and either open of closed visors for the driver and gunner/radio operator.
For my build, I will use the OVE in favor of the stowage boxes, open visors, and no smoke launchers.
Next up: General Tools.
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| Construction of the Wheels and Suspension | Aug 17, 2007 |
Step 1 in the construction instructions involves assembling the road wheels, suspension, sprockets, idler wheels and support return wheels. Many of these parts are tiny and often the attachment point of to the sprue is thicker than the parts themselves. Exercise care in their removals.
The Road Wheels as seen with some other recent kits, consists of the hub and the outer rubber wheel part as separate pieces. While painting would be much simpler later on if I left the rubber off until later, I decided to go ahead and secure them at this point. Without paint, the fit between the hub and the rubber wheel is excellent and makes a nice snug connection.
The suspension is a little tricky due not only to the size of the parts but also with their means of attachment. The leafspring has the same modeling seam that has plagued all kits running down the middle but is otherwise molded well. The rocker arms for the wheels, as well as the leafspring assembly is designed to be moveable however, all of this is held on by part E-25 which besides being tiny, has two pin sized attachment points. This will certainly lead to trouble with the rest of the build as I see them coming apart through accidental handling during later steps. To minimalize this, as I have no need for the suspension to be moveable, the simple cure is to cement this all together. The Road Wheels (1 exampled attached in photograph) will remain off the suspension until the painting of the hull is completed. They will be painted separately and then glued on.
The idler and sprocket wheels can also be attached in a manner allowing them to be turnable, but once again, I didn’t concern myself with that and cemented up the assemblies.
The support return wheels are similar to the road wheels in which the rubber portion is molded as a separate part from the hub.
A few steps from now, I will see if these assemblies will be giving me issues when attached to the hull as the connection points are rather delicate.
Next up: The Dreaded Flat Panel Hull
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