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Modeller Build Logs

Type 2 Ka-Mi

By Michael Bedard
Started: Nov 30, 2007
Updated: Jul 18, 2008

I was shipped this example by Airedale some time ago. A renewed hull was also shipped to me from whence I have started the kit. I reviewed the kit some time ago for track-link also. Since I did the review I have come across some parts that need to be addressed in the build that I will point out in the BLOG. I feel very fortunate to have this kit and will try to do it justice. This is one vehicle I would love to see in plastic but probably never will. Reference that I use will be also pointed out along with the build.

Introduction Boxtop Suspenion problems Lower Hull Fix Pontoon Fixes Filling the Holes Filled Wheels Filling the Hull Bottom Painting the Suspension Drybrushing Nasty Air Bubbles The WASH Suspension Finished Warped piece Hatches Turret Problems Preparing the Rear Float and Hull Bilge Pump Replaced the Grab Handles Cable Pulleys Gun Barrel Prepared Front Floats Track Holes Final Major Painting Finishing the Muffler Finishing Tracks
[Discussion]

DrybrushingApr 27, 2008
I am still an advocate for using washes and drybrushing. I know the latest trend is to use pre-shading but I like to stick to this old method. I used Winsor/Newton lamp black for my wash on this project. The idea of using a wash is to darken or enhance the shadow parts of the model. Models are seen in 1:1 scale light. Much like actors on a stage wear make-up to help the audience to see the actor's faces behind the bright stage lights, washes and drybrushing are the same concept for scale models in 1:1 scale light.

Over the years I have come to like using artist's oil paints for my initial drybrushing. It helps soften the edges of any washes and blends easily. This first picture shows Liquin, lamp black, Winsor blue, Cremnitz white and Manganese blue hue to match the Tamiya XF-18 medium blue color used to paint the tank. Liquin is a paint medium that helps the paint flow and speed up slightly the drying time.


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