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Forums - Modelling / Construction |
The construction forum is for the discussion of techniques on the construction phase of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
| Topics | 1839 |
| Messages | 8473 |
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| Subject: | A different opinion |  |
| Date: | May 14, 2008 |
| From: | James Wechsler | |
Bram,
I guess I have a different opinion compared to the rest of the people posting on this topic. I used the turret and engine deck from this kit and kitbashed it with the AFV Club M10. Of course Academy promptly released their M36 about 6 months later.
Based on what you described above (turret roof and lots of stowage), I would look to add the following (my comments are predicated on the concept that it makes no sense to add more aftermarket items than the cost of just buying the Academy kit):
1. Replacement roadwheels and idlers (Formations and Tiger Models make nice sets). The Tamiya ones have no backs. If you want to go cheap, another method I've used is to pour some 5 minute epoxy into the wheel backs to fill them. Then add a little mud using Plaster of Paris or a wall repair product (I like 'Fixall' here in the US). After all, these areas are barely visible so you just want to hide them. For the idlers I've just glued in half round plastic rod (Evergreen and Plastruct make it) and poured some white glue (Elmer's glue works great) to get the whole thing to blend together).
2. I'd use the Eduard photoetch for the Academy kit. You need to do a little adjusting but it'll work.
3. I think Royal Models makes a roof but it probably won't fit and it's real expensive. I'd probably scratch it from sheet plastic.
4. Consider a replacement 0.050 cal and 0.030 cal MG. Verlinden makes cheap ones that look great (they have a sets of 4 each for around $8)
5. Formations makes some nice tools if you don't want to fight the photoetch straps and brackets.
6. I'd add some casting texture to the transmission using Tenax and a stiff brush.
7. The barrel is a tough one. I used the barrel from a Tamiya Pershing but it is a little small to fit in the manlet opening because the M36 is a little over scale. Personally, I'd fight it out with the kit barrel.
8. Thin down the fenders by scraping with a model knife.
I think you can make a nice representation of the M36 even though the dimensions may not be entirely accurate.
Jim |
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