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Forums - Modelling / Construction |
The construction forum is for the discussion of techniques on the construction phase of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
| Topics | 1939 |
| Messages | 9055 |
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| Subject: | Re: Camo netting and foilage |  |
| Date: | Jun 24, 2008 |
| From: | Christopher C Tew | |
You've done a lot right and achieved a good initial aspect. Most of your assembly is good, the Zimmerit is well applied, and the figures look natural and comfortable. There are some things that could be done differently that would improve the overall effect:
1. Generally - but not always - the camouflage extended down over the wheels. Regulations called for an entire wheel to be painted in one color (so that the colors wouldn't "flash" as the wheel turned), but this was not always done and one can find wheels in two or three colors.
2. As John has mentioned, the gap at front needs to be filled (this actually looks like an assembly problem. Have you glued the top to the hull, or are you waiting until you've done some more work on the model? As I remember, getting this area together is a bit tricky - the upper hull has to fit properly into the slot formed by the projections on the lower and fenders on the upper hull parts. The Tamiya parts are beveled and should match up smoothly and evenly. If you've got some Zimmerit in the way, go ahead and scrape it smooth before final assembly). The two armor plates actually were keyed, so there could not have been such a straight gap even after severe battle damage.
3. Your Zimmerit looks good. Where it has chipped at edges, it would be good to show something different than the green or brown as an undercolor, either the Dunklegelb base camouflage or the Rotbraun primer or even dark metal. Otherwise, your story is that the crew has just repainted the tank, and don't let anyone tell you differently!
4. Thin the front edges of the fenders (back edges, too!) from the underside. These were thinner sheet metal than the Schürzen (side shields).
5. The pink piping on the uniforms and the officer's cap is too red, shiny, and, especially the latter, much too thick. This is very hard to paint to scale. Cloth uniforms should be flat, not gloss or even semi-matt. A little dirt, carefully applied, wouldn't hurt.
6. Usually, the bow MG was removed and positioned in the commander's cupola mount for AA defense. While it would be possible for the crew to get an extra MG, some armor model experts would not approve of modeling it this way.
7. Many German crews kept wire wrapped around the barrel, turret, and even the hull sides to hold netting and branches in place. Most Panthers had spare track holders at the top of the turret sides which also served to anchor wires or as hooks for camouflage. Use a single strand taken from a multi-strand wire - quite thin - and blackened with paint or chemicals.
8. Try to limit the overspray from your airbrush. You've achieved a good, even finish, but remember that the original spray gun would have had a blending area of about 4 inches (~10cm) divided by 35 for your model, and your overspray should approximate this.
9. Use a wash of browns and tans to give depth and wear to your tracks - some modelers just paint them brown to start with. Don't paint the tracks rust red/orange unless you are modeling an abandoned wreck exposed to the weather. After you've got the brown/tan to your satisfaction, go back and use a steel color (or pencil lead) on the contact ridges of the tracks. After this, you can add thick paint, or paint mixed with a thickening agent, as dirt/mud on the tracks (don't roll the tracks after doing this or the paint will likely come off). The track's guide teeth and the adjacent area would also show exposed metal, as would the rims of the wheels where the wheels rub against the guide teeth. The teeth of the drive sprocket also should show metal. How much metal you show would depend on the age/use of the vehicle, but some would be there.
10. Go to T-L's Articles section and read the articles on weathering. All of them contain good, useful advice. How much you actually do will depend on your tastes and developing skills.
11. Look closely at period photos and try to make your vehicles look like what you see. There are lots of photos of German vehicles with nets and foliage. Look closely at the models in the T-L Gallery and try to imagine how to achieve what looks best to you. If you want more information, ask the modeler how he did things. Posting your question will bring the Gallery submission into the Gallery list for a day or so so that the original modeler and others will see it and can comment. Most people here are great at sharing and helping, and no one will flame you for asking politely.
Keep modeling. Whether you're doing it for fun, bragging rights, or to recreate history, it's a great hobby!
Best,
CTew |
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 | Camo netting and foilage [IMG] - a. syalabi - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage [IMG] - a.syalabi - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage [IMG] - a. syalabi - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage [IMG] - a. syalabi - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage [IMG] - a. syalabi - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage - Johnathon Courtot - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage - Christopher C Tew - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . . . . . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage - a. syalabi - Jun 24, 2008 |
| . . . . . . . . . . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage - Christopher C Tew - Jun 25, 2008 |
| . . . . . . . . . . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage - Paul Roberts - Jul 25, 2008 |
| . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Re: Camo netting and foilage - a. syalabi - Jul 26, 2008 |
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