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Forums - Modelling / Construction |
The construction forum is for the discussion of techniques on the construction phase of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
| Topics | 1939 |
| Messages | 9055 |
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| Subject: | Re: Resin Basics |  |
| Date: | Sep 21, 2008 |
| From: | Michael Powers | |
Evan
The most important thing about working with resin is that you exercise patience.
You are making a very good choice with a MIG ktt. The casting quality is generally quite high.
Tools:
Fine Tooth Razor Saw (narrow and wide blade)
Needle files both course and fine
Super Glue (Both fast setting and Gap filling)
Super Glue Accelerator
Short lengths of fine brass rod to apply Super Glue
Small disposable paint brush to apply Super Glue Accelerator
Double-stick Scotch Tape
Full set of sanding sticks
Hair Dryer
Xacto knife
filler (Milliput Extrafine and Squadron Green putty)
Flush cutting nippers(Xuron)
Good Reference (Concord publication)
Tweezers
In some ways resin can be easier than styrene. It is soft and easy to repair. It can also be easily damaged with an errant saw cut so be careful.
I'll talk about MIG kits here:
1. Wash all the parts with a soft paintbrush in warm soapy dish detergent, rinse and let air dry overnite. This will remove all casting release agent that may be on the surface of the castings and may play havoc with your primer later on.
2.The First thing you will notice is that there are no "spues" in the traditional sense.
Since everything is pour cast there are casting pour blocks attached to most all parts.
These need to be removed quite carefully. Larger parts can be removed with the razor saw.
On smaller pieces just score both sides of the block attachment seam and carefully snap off. On very small detail parts take your time and use your exacto-type art knife or flush-cutting nippers (Xuron). Be careful with those nippers as you can shatter fine, thin parts. Once you separate a part from its block mark it with a permanent marker with its part number, if possible... this will help to avoid assembly confusion later on. Sand all the edges smooth. For most pieces that require a flat edge, I tape a sheet of sandpaper on a board and gently sand the surface that I would like to be absolutely flat in a gently fire eight pattern... checking on a small piece of glass for flatness and squareness. I start with 200 grit and finish with a good quality 600 grit. If you are worried about resin dust, get automotive-type sandpaper and wet sand the parts (put a light coat of water on the sandpaper and use the above procedure.) Needle files are great for cleaning up parts too.
3. Look over your parts carefully. You are looking for air bubble holes or malformed parts. If you have mispours or radically misaligned parts due to mold misalignment contact the manufacturer. MIG makes very nice stuff and this is usually not a problem. I am sure that they will send you a replacement part if the one you have is unusable. If you have a warped part you now get to use your hair dryer or warm water. If it is mildly warped you can run the part under hot water until it becomes pliable, then straighten it out and run it under cold water and PRESTO! good as new. If the part is a little more radically warped use your hair dryer on LOW until it becomes warm and pliable and then straighten it out and dip it in a cup of cool water. Again, I have had NO warped parts in my MIG kits; but there is always a first time. Fill small airholes with gap filling super glue or Squadron Green putty. Use Milliput or epoxy filler for larger holes or parts you are trying to reform. When sanding epoxy remember that it is harder than the surrounding surface. take your time and use a file if you need to be more precise.
4. Next you will see that there are generally NO locating pins. You must dry fit three times and glue once!
Study the instructions, Study your reference materials and then place the part itself in the correct area and make sure that it fits and makes sense.
5.Work on a nice clean flat surface. Make sure your work area is well ventilated. Use gap filling cement for larger pieces (gives you some positioning time) For those pieces that are small and you can place with a sure shot you can use the thin fast set stuff. Once you have the parts positioned correctly (and glued) dip your brush in the Accelerator and touch it to the part just to the side of the joint and let the accelerator flow into the glue. This will help preserve the life of you brush. You should ONLY use the Accelerator on the gap filling cement.
Double stick tape can be a great clamp. You can stick a stretch of it on your work table tap and then stick part of the assembly to it while you glue more objects to the kit. It is an extra set of hands and can often times be a good way to steady a part while you apply another part to it.
6. Carefully clean the assembled kit with soapy water AGAIN (remember you have been handling it with your hands while eating that slice of Pizza) Rinse carefully and let dry.
7. Prime that resin. I always do. It can help you spot building imperfections that you may then want to file to perfection. It also gives your topcoat something to bit into. I use Floquil superfine light grey primer. There are other ( I have also used Tamiya spray primer for plastic and metal)
There is a lot more about resin I could tell you. But with MIGs stuff, I think this is good start.
Please email me if you have questions that pop up while building this conversion.
Mike |
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