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Forums - Modelling / Construction |
The construction forum is for the discussion of techniques on the construction phase of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
| Topics | 1894 |
| Messages | 8731 |
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| Subject: | Softening photo-etch parts |  |
| Date: | Feb 22, 2005 |
| From: | Adam Lunoe | |
I just read Damon Agretto's fine review of UM's Pz 38(t) when I noted he found the photoetch fender braces difficult to bend to shape. Especially as he believes the material to be sheet copper, the follwing may be a good tip, and the technique ought to work for brass etch parts as well. Of course, always be careful, watch out, don't hurt yourself etc.
Hold the etch fret by an unused edge with needle nose pliers. I'd do the whole fret at one time rather than fiddling about with microscopic individual parts. Using a burner on your stove (or a small torch if your stove is electric) heat the part in the upper visible part of the flame until it begins to glow a dull cherry red. Do not keep the fret in the fire any longer than necessary or it may distort or worse. Quickly immerse the fret in a bowl of cold water and swish it around for a few seconds. The heating and fast cooling render the metal as close to dead soft as you are going to get. Clean the part and deal with it as usual from there on.
This works on copper and thus should also work on brass, a copper alloy. This will probably not work on etch frets made of stainless steel, but red and yellow metals sould give good results. Do not set the house on fire or brand yourself, and have the water ready before heating the part, as slow air cooling wil not give good results. I am not responsible for any imaginable domestic difficulties you may encounter using the kitchen not for food, okay?
Best, and hope this helped,
Adam |
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