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Forums - Modelling / Construction |
The construction forum is for the discussion of techniques on the construction phase of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
| Topics | 1893 |
| Messages | 8726 |
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| Subject: | Re: Bought my first resin kit! Now what? |  |
| Date: | Mar 7, 2001 |
| From: | Paul Roberts | |
> Any tips or pointers would be helpful.
As to how to build a resin kit, Roy's advise was right on. As to the
S-Model Ram II, here are some easy fixes that really should be made to
the kit:
1) The kit is based on the Verlinden, then H&R35 conversions and these
were based on the Nitto M4A1. That kit was 6" too short and 6" too wide
making the S-Model Ram look decidedly stumpy compared to the real thing.
There's not much you can do about this, but thought you should know.
2) S-Model kindly provide a complete chassis under the H&K conversion
hull. Unfortunately they did nothing to correct the faults of the Tamiya
Lee they copied. You must replace the 6 spoke road wheels with 5 spoke
wheels from another Sherman. You will also be MUCH better off if you
replace the resin tracks with the new RHPS WE210 track set.
3) S-Model have changed the details on the hull a bit from the H&K and
added a odd shaped structure over the location of the air intake grill
on the engine deck. Unfortunately this is only correct for those few
Rams converted to take deep wading gear and if retained you really
should add the rest of the fittings to the rear of the hull (email me
and I'll give yuo the low down). If you don't want to do that, then
carefully remove the small superstructure and replace it with the plain
diamond grill as seen on the Tamiya Lee/Grant.
4) The S-model instructions show adding parts 40 and 41 to the rear
engine plate. As both are exhausts, you only need parts 40. Omit 41 and
fill in the slot in the plate.
5) The 5 filler caps need a cast-in protective lip to the outboard side
of them.
6) The arrangement of tools given in the kit will not match the tool
arrangement shown on the 4 view drawing in the instructions. The
instruction drawing is correct, but you will have to scavenge some tools
and fill some locator holes. THe holes match up to the US tool
arrangement on the M4A1.
7) As provided in the box, the arrangements of turret and sponson doors
do not correspond to any actual Ram produced. All the Ram IIs had at
least the right side door protectoscope removed and replaced with a
ventilator. By the time of the vehicle shown in the images in the
instructions (lifted directly out of the Hunnicutt book, BTW) both
sponson doors had ventilators (this can be clearly seen in the photos.
Use some epoxy putty and replace the protectoscopes with the
ventilators.
8) The small triangular stowage boxes (part 10 & 11) were not original
equipment, but were added at field workshops. They are not usually seen
on Rams in Canada.
9) The Turret lacks the very prominent casting seam that occurred right
at the kit joint between the upper and lower turret halves. You can see
this a mile away on the real thing.
10) The turret and hull are WAAAAY to smooth. THe Ram castings were made
in sand moulds and after removing the pattern, the sand was shaped and
patched by hand and with trowels. These trowel marks are very visible,
even from 40-50 feet away on the real thing and can be replicated by
running a dremel burr over the surface and gently carving trowel marks
all over the castings.
11) The turret is about a foot too wide. This can be fixed, but its a
bugger.
12) There are two small indentations in the rear hull overhang.
Nominally these are for the standard rear lights from a Sherman. Drill
out the indentations to the proper diameter and pop in at leas the lens
set form as set of Sherman tail lights. Do not use parts number 43 as
shown i n the instructions.
13) There is a small raised disc in the centre of the rear hull
overhang. Drill a small (.030 dia) hole through the centre of this disc
and then sand the disc away. It never existed.
14) There is a small feature cast into the top of the rear hull overhang
that marks the Rams, cast Lees and very early cast M4A1s. It is a small
drain channel. It is about 4" wide and about .5" deep and extends from
the centre of the rear most engine deck plate back almost to the small
hole drilled above.
15) There should be a fire extinguisher pull station on the right hand
sponson just in front of the two filler caps there. It is shown on the
small drawing in the instructions and in the Hunnicutt photos.
16) The tow hawser doesn't drape over the left side of the tank as shown
on the box top, but rather in a loop on the right side as shown in the
heading photo in the instructions.
17) the 6 pdr barrel is about 8" too short at the breech end, but this
isn't too noticeable.
18) Paint the tank in SCC2 Brown (Dark Earth will do) unless yo make a
heavily modified version in which case it can be painted in Olive Drab.
There are a bunch of even smaller details to fix if you're in the mood.
Email me and I'll pass them on.
> Why does the kit smell like chemicals?
It IS chemicals. Generally chemicals that haven't completely reacted as
of the time you buy the kit. This keeps up for several months after the
kit is demoulded, but eventually goes away.
HTH
Paul
--
Paul Roberts
Scale Tech Distributing
Contract Model Makers
tankmodeler@home.com
http://www.tamcotec.com/proberts/ |
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