|
|
Forums - Modelling / Construction |
The construction forum is for the discussion of techniques on the construction phase of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
| Topics | 1920 |
| Messages | 8933 |
|
|
| Subject: | Re: SD KFZ 222Construction Has Started, But Help Is Needed | |
| Date: | Jun 4, 2006 |
| From: | Christopher C. Tew | |
Andrew B. -
Two ways to do this:
1 - Apply the thin liquid glue to the contact areas of both pices and put them together as quickly as possible. Hold for a few seconds, then let go. A concern here is getting too much glue on the contact surfaces so that it oozes out of the joint. If you don't act relatively quickly, the glue will evaporate (it's really a solvent instead of a glue) and you'll be trying to stick two dry pieces together, which sounds like what happened.
2 - Put the parts together as accurately as possible and touch the glue brush to a hidden area of the contact joint. The glue will flow along the joint by capillary (sp?) action. Hold the pieces together as above, then release. This works fine when there is an out-of-sight "inside" place to put the glue and can be used outside when you have practiced the technique and are sure-handed enough to risk it.
Testors liquid glue has a few seconds drying time and can be used with either method. Tenax and similar professional solvents dry so fast that method 2 is better. You might have more success for now using one of the thin glues that are really glues - they come in plastic containers with long metal tube applicators, looks sort of like an old-fashioned oil can. They are mostly solvent but have enough filler material in them to give you a minute to position the parts. Just be aware that if there is warpage, you'll have to hold the parts together longer until the glue sets.
Like Andrew H., I'm too old for IM, but someone here will always be glad to help if your patient.
Best,
CTew |
| |
|
|
|