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Forums - Modelling / Figures |
The figures forum is for the discussion of construction and painting of figures and the tools and materials used. |
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| Subject: | Re: Winter Uniform Washing & Snow |  |
| Date: | Mar 31, 2006 |
| From: | Stephen Hooker | |
Hi Alan,
Glad you found the information useful. Regarding your question: no, I haven't found the need to apply either additional baking soda or hair spray to achieve a convincing snow effect. (To clarify, I'm assuming that you are asking whether an additional layer of glue and soda is necessary.)
I have, however, experimented with adding random sprinkled patches of baking soda (often mixed with the glass frit I mentioned) while the white glue-water-soda mixture is not completely set. In other words, I do not let the original mixture dry completely before adding a light dusting of soda. An advantage is that the drying process of white glue and bicarbonate allows plenty of working time.
I should point out that I do not mix the glass frit with the bicarbonate, water and white glue mixture - rather, I prefer to apply it as a final 'dusting' effect which has quite subtle surface ‘sparkling’ effect I previously noted. This should not, I think, be overdone. Like an effective drybrushing, it shouldn't draw attention to itself - understated subtlety is the key, like so many aspects of modelling. If you think you are being too timid when applying the final light layer, you are probably going to achieve a much better result than being a bit heavy-handed.
If possible, I try to avoid applying another layer of glue to attach additional "powdery snow" if only to save time. The trick to this is learning to judge when the white glue is beginning to dry while still retaining enough stickiness to attach more soda and/or glass frit.
The time to lightly apply more soda (I use a fine-mesh flat-bottomed metal tea strainer, and I gently tap the rim with a paint brush handle) is when the white glue has begun losing its cloudiness when it congeals as it starts to dry. You can apply a second coat of thinned white glue alone in some areas if you want more of an ‘icy’ effect.
Experimentation and experience is, I think, the key to perfecting this technique – though very rewarding results can be achieved on a first attempt.
I've tried using the hairspray method but haven't really had that much luck with it. Perhaps it's just me, but I found the spray nearly impossible to apply in a controlled manner. Other modellers have told me that this method works very well for them, but I've not had much luck with the results myself. To each his own, I suppose.
I cannot take credit for having invented the baking soda and white glue method I’ve described to you - I came across it on an armour website many months ago, but could not recall precisely where I'd seen the article. Eventually I found it: http://www.missing-lynx.com/articles/other/create_snow_cheehongahn.html.
I'm sure you will find that the photographs are as inspiring as the article itself is informative. Even more amazing, I think, is the fact that the modelling subject used to illustrate the method is in 1/72nd scale!
I agree with you in that acrylic paints are much more forgiving than artists' oils, although I still use the latter exclusively for painting and blending flesh tones. Having recently attempted the various and complex SS mottled camouflage pattern uniforms for the first time, I've concluded that acrylics are the only reasonable medium to consider using for this. I've painted field grey and khaki uniforms successfully using oils alone - along with considerable patience and perseverance - but trying to paint a zeltbahn or SS ‘dot-pea’ camouflage pattern in oils is simply an exercise in near-masochistic frustration.
Calvin Tan's recent book, Osprey Modelling 23 on Waffen-SS figures, is superb - indispensable if you have any interest at all in attempting camouflaged uniforms in Vallejo acrylics. While winter uniforms are not covered specifically, there’s a wealth of useful information. And remember also, if painting German figures is your area of interest, that many cold-weather uniforms were reversible - winter white on one side and camouflage on the other.
Best of luck, Alan, and happy modelling!
sjh |
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