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| Subject: | DML sFH-18 Howitzer w/Limber instruction errata |  |
| Date: | Nov 25, 2007 |
| From: | Curtis Jurrens | |
Dragon kit #6392, sFH-18 Howitzer w/Limber Smart Kit Instruction Errata
As I posted in another topic here on TL, I recently purchased Dragon's kit #6392, sFH-18 Howitzer w/Limber Smart Kit, and have completed most of the construction of it. The kit is very nice; however, the instructions are a disappointment in an otherwise great kit.
I was warned by a build review on PMMS of the kit that there were numerous errors in the instructions. Unfortunately I've found some more to add to that list. Here is a partial list of problems that I found with the instructions. Some of these may have been noted on the PMMS review, some of the issues I encountered during the build. They probably won't make any sense unless you have the directions in front of you, but hopefully they'll be helpful to others building the kit.
Step 1 -
Part A39 gets sandwiched in between A16 and A17; you can install it later, but you have to trim it a little.
Keep in mind that A53 and A20 will be in different positions depending on whether the breech is open or closed.
Step 2 -
The number callouts for parts A4 and A5 are transposed--the numbers are wrong but the drawing is correct.
The part called out as A58 is actually A9.
The arrow showing where A13 goes is wrong. It goes on the underside of the recouperator housing, not in the middle of it.
The part called out as A39 is actually A29.
Step 3/4/5 -
The part in the drawing numbered A46 is actually A47.
There's no indication of which direction A57 is to be installed--"up" or "down"
There's no indication of which direction MB2 is installed, but that should be pretty evident.
Based on the PMMS review, I'm waiting until later to install the traverse gear A44.
Step 6 -
Part numbers C24 and C25 are transposed. C24 goes on the side that has the handbrake lever.
The arrows pointing to where C12 gets installed are wrong or unclear. The nib on the lever at the end of the (very fragile) rod goes into the hole nearest to where the instructions show C10 installed. The nib about halfway down the handbrake lever near the kink gets installed where the arrow shows the upper nib getting installed.
Parts C8 and C9 each have a large nib and small nib. These install on the respective large and small holes on the ends of C24 and C25. I'd recommend installing the tiny adjuster knobs D17 first; it's a little tricky to add them later.
I'd also wait until later to add the wheels and especially parts D13--I believe those tie down loops were on bearings and should therefore point downwards; IMHO alignment of those would be easier to ascertain if installed toward the end of the build.
Step 7 -
The numbers for C13 and C29 are transposed--go by the drawing.
Don't shave too much off of the sprue attachment points on the bolts sticking up from C13 (spring) and down from C29 (axle) they're supposed to attach to one another, and if you shave too much off they might not meet.
Take care installing the spring C13--use C5 to help show the way it goes.
I would recommend adding C6 once you've installed the trailing arms, especially if you're posing it in the firing position; there's a nub on the trailing arm pivots that makes it easier to install if that part's not on there.
I'm pretty sure that the levers C1 and C2 are shown in the travel position. I think that in firing position they would be splayed out to lock the trailing arms in the open position--again, installing C6 later will show how these would be locked in the firing position.
Step 8 -
No mistakes!
Step 9 -
It's easier to attach D8 to D7 and then attach that to D9 OR attach D8 to D9 then attach D7. There's very little area for a positive attachment of D7 to D9 without having D8 in place.
Step 10 -
Part number B26 is really B27.
A56 is another "RP" part, and appears to be a catch for the step B12. According to a photo in the Rosso Graph book on the sFH-18, I think the barely discernible "L" on the attachment end of the part should face up.
B12 can be installed folded (as shown in the drawing) or deployed if glued to be level with B16.
B26 should be installed so that the raised fins that are perpendicular to the tube line up with the fins on the bracket molded on the trail.
D1 will fit either way, but there's no indication which way. I think that the "long" blank end of the part should go at the pivot end; this is based on the rivet detail on the sides of trail--installing it with the "long" blank end towards the pivot will allow the zigzagging rivet detail to line up with the rivets on the bottoms of the trails. I haven't glued mine on yet--I'm going to wait until the end and see if it's going to need any weight in them to counter the weight of the turned alloy barrel.
Check your references as to the correct position of lever B17. The instructions would have you install over the hole for the posts on the spades, that's definitely not where it goes. I’m pretty sure it should actually be installed on the top of B24 in step 11. I think it’s also a locking lever for when the trails are in travel mode, so it may have to be positioned accordingly.
Step 11 -
Most of the notes for step 10 apply here too.
Part number B27 is really B26.
The scrap view at the top the page is upside-down, but I guess its alignment is a blueprint view based on the alignment of the drawing below it. Nonetheless it's somewhat confusing.
Step 12 -
Part numbers E8 and E9 are transposed, go by the drawing.
There are two of part number D29 to be used, (one on E8 and one on E9) but only one is called out. By DML's typical instruction callouts, the part should be called out as-is D29, with another D29 in parenthesis underneath.
Part number called out as E12 is actually E2.
IMPORTANT: The axle E10 should be installed before E18 and E19. It is possible to bend it and weave it through later, but it would be much easier to install it first.
I'm pretty sure that reflector E5 should be installed on the END of the bracket on E17, not on the face of it.
As with the wheels on the gun carriage, I'm pretty sure that the tie down rings on the limber's wheels should align downwards with gravity; best to install those last too.
Step 13 -
I haven't gotten here yet, but I'd installed the upper arm pivots after attaching the arms to the carriage center section.
The end of C20 or C21 is supposed to attach to the end of A43 that was installed back in step 3.
If you're building in travel mode, the spades shouldn't just hang on the sides of the arms--there's a little nub on the center of the front edge of the spade (D7) that should sit in a little notch between two small blocks molded on the inner edge of the trailing arms. The Rosso Graph book shows that these small blocks were the housing for what looks to be a captive, spring-loaded retainer pin.
I’m not sure what the differences in the sight mechanisms are (A58-MA-A60 / A3 / A52) Maybe the A58-MA-A60 gives some measure of adjustability as to elevation of gun versus the position of the indicator levers?
If you REALLY want to nitpick, the levers molded onto the tops of B21 and B24 at the end of the trailing arms are locking levers for when the spades are installed; when the spades are in place, they should shown be rotated to lock into the top of the posts on the spades. As they are molded in place, you can’t do this. Personally it doesn’t really bother me but I know that there are those out there that would have a coronary over it.
Other –
There is no mention anywhere except the sprue diagrams of the ammo (sprue G).
I just noticed as I was writing this that the callouts for the part numbers in the sprue diagrams look to be mostly correct with respect to the problems listed above with regard to incorrect and transposed part numbers in the instructions. (For example, the part called out in the instruction step 2 as A58 but which really is A9 is correctly illustrated and numbered as A9 in the sprue diagrams.) Go figure.
Hope this helps everyone else building the kit!
Best regards,
Curtis |
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