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Forums - Modelling / Painting |
The painting forum is for the discussion of techniques on the painting, decalling and weathering phases of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
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| Subject: | Re: Painting Friulmodel Metal Tracks |  |
| Date: | Dec 15, 2005 |
| From: | Al Crawford | |
I'll un-recommend Blacken-it. Don't get me wrong, it produces great results, but it's very easy to go through gallons of the stuff with big tracks and it's quite the most toxic substance I've encountered in modelling (and I've encountered some pretty toxic substances).
I actually found a recipe for a "fake, less-toxic Blacken it" that I use and which I'm *very* pleased with the results of.
The most important thing of all is to get that metal *clean*. Any areas that remain greasy will become obvious as large shiny patches. I clean in plain soap and water before assembly and then do a second cleaning, using a toothbrush, after track assembly.
The recipe, which I found somewhere on the net is something like:
Get a big jar, like one of the ones you buy spaghetti sauce in. With a lid, if you want the stuff to last. Next (assuming they're available) buy at least a couple of the big bottles each of Floquil's railroad enamels for Rust and Grimy Black and a big tin/bottle/whatever of the appropriate Floquil thinner. Mix in equal parts (helpful hint - pour the thinner into the empty paint bottles - not only do you measure out the right amount, you clean the bottle). Mix very thoroughly. You may need to make quite a lot - you need to be able to immerse an entire length of track in it in one go, and even if you're careful with folding the track, that might still require an inch or two depth.
Once it's well mixed, put the lid on and shake the hell out of it, just for kicks. This also gives you an idea of the consistency of the funny colored goop you have just created - it runs down the side of the jar leaving and collects in the bottom. Although it looks like mud, it's really quite thin.
Now get your length of cleaned Fruil track. You will need some thin wire and a place to hang something hanging from some wire over a drip-absorbent surface. I've found several layers of paper towelling (the very absorbent kind) can be enough. Loop the wire through an opening in the end link (if it doesn't have any, try between links). In whatever way you want, create a "noose" for the track.
Now dip the track in the mixture, making sure all parts get fully immersed. You can dip and lift out and redip as often as you want, but it's a good idea to remember how often you did it since you'll want to duplicate it for the other track. When you're done, lift the track above the jar and let the obvious runoff run...off.
Now hang it above a drip absorbent surface for three or four days. Yes, days. If you want you can switch the end it's hanging from on every so often for excitement. In my experience you just don't get paint runs with this stuff, but it doesn't hurt to hold a piece of paper towel to the drip end every hour or three and wick away accumulation that might dry before there's enough of it to drip.
After three or four days it's dry to the touch. Hopefully the paint has separated out a little and you'll have a nice dark rusty metal look, occasionally with patches of dirt or rust in nooks and crannies.
Some people might find the track fine as is but I've got a couple of things I usually do afterwards - I like to give it a wash of Rust-All since only that gives the whitish oxidation you get from real rusting. I also use the black stuff you get in a typical Rust-all kit as another wash just to collect in corners, etc.
Depending on the tank (you should know, you built it) if there are any areas particularly prone to scraping that might be showing bare metal, a quick swipe of the sanding stick can be used. Finally, seal the whole thing by airbrushing a couple of thin coats of dullcote.
It's slower than using Blacken-It but I find it easiier to get consistent results, the reaction doesn't give off irritant fumes (just the usual enamel vapors) and it doesn't involve dunking stuff in liquids with a high selenium content.
Al |
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