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Forums - Modelling / Painting |
The painting forum is for the discussion of techniques on the painting, decalling and weathering phases of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
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| Subject: | Re: Washing woes |  |
| Date: | May 10, 2007 |
| From: | Jerry Plettenberg | |
Hello Karsten,
Here's my modest input.
Oils are better to paint faces than acrylics, in the sense that it is easier for beginners or re-starters as I will explain below.
The ideal oil paint for faces, arms and hands on figures is the high quality that comes in tubes.
I advise brands like Winsor & Newton, or for instance Rembrandt.
Not cheap but a 40ml/1.4fl oz. tube will last you almost a lifetime!
(...depending on your present age, obviously haha..)
You will never have to worry about pigment particles with these brands since they are absolutely ultra-micro-small.
My advice is you experiment with several mixes paint/turps and see which one gives the effect you desire.
It is rather hard to explain but the mix should in any case be not too 'watery' but also not too thick with more paint than turps percentage wise. Let us say about 50/50.
Using a good quality sable hair brush is also important.
When doing the facial 'background' dark colour I use a nummer 1 or number 2 (pointed) brush.
For your information; I'm using Talens' Rembrandt Number 430 Brown Ochre for face wash.
On figures, that is.
Also try to see if it helps to softly and slighly wipe the brush on a tissue after you punt the paint on the brush.
That's a trick that will also help to get rid of any excess amount of paint on the hairs of the brush.
The good thing with oil paints is that they dry a lot slower than acrylics and if you are not happy with previous results you should be able to wipe most, if not all, of the thinned down oilpaint mix from the face.
Best to use a very soft paper tissue or a q-tip (or whatever these thingies are called in your corner of the world) wetted with turps.
Use turps sparingly on plastic heads though, an overdose may take away detail!
Resin heads are ok even to soak in turps without any deforming.
Another thing you should bear in mind is that the sharp facial detail is much better on resin figures and heads like those by Hornet and that the facial detail on Tamiya (especially the older figure sets), TriStar's sets and most of Dragon's figures with the exception of the Gen-2 figure series is much less defined.
In other words, the quality of the heads is just as important as the quality of paint when you want to go for maximum results.
I myself am right in the middele of finishing a full crew complement for my recently finished Tamiya Famo SdKfz 9.
I used all the figures that come with the kit but I had all heads exchanged for Hornet heads.
H.T.H. and Happy Modelling
Jerry Plettenberg |
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