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Forums - Modelling / Painting |
The painting forum is for the discussion of techniques on the painting, decalling and weathering phases of AFV modelling and the tools and materials used. |
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| Subject: | Re: Priming winyl tracks/tires |  |
| Date: | Nov 8, 2007 |
| From: | Gerald Owens | |
I don't believe humidity has anything to do with it. I live in the tropics, too, and from my experience, some vinyls age well, others just don't, so I suppose it's the formulation. If there are a lot of volatiles in the mix, hydrocarbons which will "outgas" or evaporate over time, the material will harden and crack eventually.
Vinyl tracks seem pretty much indestructible (I have some from 1970 that are as good as new), while those used for tires are less reliable (these also seem more prone to "styrene eating disease," where the vinyl contains solvents that dissolve styrene parts).
Hobbyists in the UK used to buy cheap Airfix and Britains soft plastic figures and paint them with enamels, but the plasticizers in the soft plastic would leach out and turn the paint glossy, as well as soften it (don't know if these were vinyl or polyethylene--both were widely used). White glue thinned with water was touted as a reliable barrier coat to prevent this.
That said, I've never primed vinyl tracks. I've found they can be painted with normal enamels if you fit them to the tank immediately after they dry, while the enamel coat is still flexible. Any minor chipping can be touched up with a fine brush. Once the paint hardens through, though, it becomes brittle and will flake badly if flexed.
However, Tamiya glueable soft styrene is quite different from vinyl, and must never be exposed to enamel or lacquer thinners as it will dry out and crumble within days. |
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