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Forums - News / General |
For General modelling or hobby-related topics that are not covered by any other specific forum. Please keep to topics concerning the hobby. |
| Topics | 2964 |
| Messages | 21973 |
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| Subject: | Re: How to make decals? |  |
| Date: | Aug 20, 2002 |
| From: | Chris | |
Several years ago I ordered small sample packs of decal paper from MicroMark.
I got sheets that were not specifically for inkjet, but they worked pretty
well some of the time. Some colors from an original Epson Stylus would not dry
and beaded and smeared, but others were fine. I overcoated the inkjet printing
that did work with an oil-based clear gloss with no problems, and the decals
applied just like any others that react well to the Microscale system or
Solvaset.
I reordered decal paper from MicroMark last year that was supposed to be
specifically for inkjet printers, and it did not work. No matter what I used
to seal the printing from a newer Epson Stylus 900, water leaked through, I
suspect from the base film side, and the decals smeared. The base film was
also noticeably thicker, so much so that I would not have used the decals for
small areas where the edges would show.
In either case, the main problem was color density. My Epson just doesn't put
down enough ink with the lighter colors to hide the model's camouflage colors
underneath the decal. This should not be a problem with a color laser printer
or the older printers that use heat sensitive ribbons to apply color.
I have toyed with the idea of printing on white base paper, also available
from MicroMark, and using the color of the vehicle as a background color for
the art - also allowing the use of white as part of the artwork, but that
involves some careful colormatching.
I have done the art for an SdKfz. 10 from a Hermann Goering unit, but the
model I intended those decals for got put aside on a shelf where it has been
for about a year now, and the lesson from the leaking decals has discouraged
me from pressing the issue.
CTew |
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