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Forums - Research / WW2 |
This WW2 forum is intended for asking and discussing reference or historical related issues pertaining to WW2 (1939-1945) subjects. |
| Topics | 3259 |
| Messages | 14493 |
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| Subject: | Re: What brand of paint?? |  |
| Date: | Jun 16, 2003 |
| From: | Chris | |
The old Nitto kit, maybe an Academy rebox? If the machine guns look like
broom handles stuck into a rectangular box with a rifle stock at the
other end, throw them away. If you've bought a separate figure set that
has MGs, use them instead or do without.
It really sounds like you are just getting started in the hobby. There
are some good books, not too expensive, that discuss vehicle and figure
painting in detail, with drawings and photos of how to do things. These
books are available through any good hobby shop or web vendor. TL and
other hobby web sites also have this info, though it's sometimes
scattered among several reviews or articles. The following is so sketchy
that, if you haven't done any of this before, it might not help much,
but we all started from scratch sometime.
Testors ModelMaster has all the colors you'll need. If you're in the UK,
try the Humbrol line. Wash the model in warm, slightly soapy water to
get off any mold release agent and your fingerprints, and rinse it well.
Let it dry. If this is indeed one of your first models and you plan to
use a brush, use the flat enamels as they usually apply more easily and
evenly. (If you need to use acrylics, try to use a good quality brush
and plan on doing two thin coats for the dark yellow base color, one
back to front and one up and down - the first coat must be completely
dry before you apply the second.) Try not to let the paint build up into
a thick layer or pile up in corners - keep it as thin as possible. Clean
your brush whenever you feel the paint on it getting dry and sticky.
Let the dark yellow base color dry completely - 24 hours - before
applying the next color. Clean your brush well between colors. Put the
green and redbrown on in snaky steaks or make big Xs - about the arm
length of your figures and about a thick as the figure's palm width. Do
this in only one coat. Put a thin coat of Future (a clear, acrylic floor
wax) where the decals go - decals don't stick well to flat paint and any
clear decal material will likely look bad without the acrylic wax. When
the decals are dry, give the whole thing a spray of Dullcoat (comes in a
spray can _ Humbrol has a clear flat, but I don't know if it is
available as a spray) to blend the flat paint, clear wax, and decals
into an even finish.
The Dullcoat will also hide some paint streaks. Take care spraying
Dullcoat. You can put down a thick layer in a hurry, and this can cause
the Dullcoat to whiten or build up into a real mess. Two or three very
light coats are better than one heavy coat. Breathing the fumes is not
good for you, either.
Try to get a spray can of flat white or a light color to undercoat the
figures. This will make the detail painting on the faces (it's real hard
to get the nose, lips, and eye ridges to look right without an undercoat
or putting on so much paint that the recesses fill up) and uniforms
easier. Let the undercoat dry completely so you don't pull it up doing
the rest of the painting.
Good luck,
CTew |
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