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Messages in this Build Logs forum are automatically posted when new Build Logs or Chapters are added. Other modellers can then comment on them. Refer to the Build Logs section for more information.

Topics	81
Messages	3070

Subject:

[Chapter 18] Weathering - Pigments

Date:

Mar 5, 2006

From:

James Wechsler

Weathering - Pigments

I have to admit that I’ve become a huge fan of pigments. I’ve got a bunch from a number of different manufacturers. I tend to use the Mig Pigments the most because I like how they adhere to the model. Generally, I use them dry because I haven’t been in love with the results when I mix them with either water or a thinner. I tend to use oil washes to achieve the same effects. For this model, I mixed Mig Productions European Dust, Gulf War Sand, and Industrial Gray together. I purposefully didn’t mix these very thoroughly so that I’d get a little variation when I applied them.

What I’ve found about using pigments is that more is less. I’ve seen a number of models (including one or two on my shelf) that look like they were dipped in dust. I guess technically its accurate but to my eye it just looks washed out.

In using pigments, I tend to take a very different approach for the lower hull versus the rest of the vehicle. For the lower hull, I use a pretty large brush that I’ve cut down to a stub (maybe 1/8 inch of brush). I’ll get a big clump of pigment on it and start covering the hull. I tend to try to roll the brush in my fingers while moving along the hull (an old draftsman technique for keeping a sharp pencil point). The result is a large caking of the pigments with some areas pressed in harder than others.

At this point, the hull looks completely covered in pigment. I’ll blow off the loose stuff and then using my fingers start to rub the hull. This tends to get the flat surfaces a little cleaner while leaving build up in the corners, etc. For tighter areas I use a woman’s eye liner applicator (basically a small sponge on a stick). You can get these at most drug stores for about $5604 each for the Hollywood Gift Bag version or about 20 for $1 for the regular type. The result is a faded, dirty look that hasn’t lost the detail.

I use the same technique for the suspension. However, I also go back and do a little drybrushing right over the pigment. For this model I used Model Master Burnt Umber. The drybrushing on the suspension has the effect of looking like areas where the dust has been rubbed off from wear. It makes a mess of your brush but standard paint thinner will clean it up.

For the rest of the model I use a completely different technique. I use a very small brush, again cut back to about 1/8 inch in length, maybe a little less. For this application, I try to get the pigments directly into the corners, cracks, and other areas where it will accumulate. This also includes around the lift rings, the headlight posts, etc. Doing this keeps the model from getting too dusty and looking faded out. But it does give a sense of being dirty. I’ve found that your imagination will take it from there.

In general, I tend to do more of this technique on the lower parts of the vehicle and get progressively less as I move up. The exception is on flat surfaces like the top of the turret where build up is likely to occur.

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