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Messages in this Build Logs forum are automatically posted when new Build Logs or Chapters are added. Other modellers can then comment on them. Refer to the Build Logs section for more information.

Topics	81
Messages	3071

Subject:

[Chapter 19] The Tracks

Date:

Mar 7, 2006

From:

James Wechsler

The Tracks

Putting together the tracks for the model is first and foremost a math problem. There are 5 parts per link. The link itself, two end connectors, and two extended end connectors (duckbills). A standard hull Sherman has 79 links per track but with the E9 modification, it looks like I’ll need 80 links. So that’s 5 parts per link X 80 links per track X 2 tracks for a total of 800 parts! Ouch. No matter how you slice and dice it, that’s a whole lot of parts that need assembling.

Fortunately, the RHPS tracks are designed in a way that you don’t have to clean up pin marks. In addition, if you use a good sprue cutter, you can avoid clean up entirely. Trust me, that’s a big deal.

I started by assembling the basic tracks. Having used RHPS tracks before, I’ve found that by dipping the pins on each link in white glue the tracks ends up fully workable and yet the end connectors don’t fall off. I guess everyone has to figure out the best technique for doing this assembly but for me, I’ve found that I can hold the tracks in such a way that I can touch the pins with the glue using a toothpick and then drop on the end connector. Thus, I can assemble the whole length of track at once.

With the tracks built and dry, I then started to add the duckbills. Since the tracks are completely injection molded you can use good old Testor’s tube glue to attach them. Makes a huge difference in how long it takes. I like to leave off a few duckbills since they typically get broken off during use. Also, I make a point of not getting them all perfectly aligned since reference photos show them to be bent at all kind of angles. One note, if you do this and take your models to competitions, be sure to note that you’ve done it on purpose. Judges will often mistake it for poor workmanship.

While putting on the duckbills I did run into one serious problem. I came up short. Really short. Like 40 duckbills short. I’ve used the RHPS duckbills many times and there’s always a number that are broken and/or mis-molded. But in the past I’ve always ended up with extras. However, the two sets I used on this model had an extraordinary number of badly molded parts. Even after I used all of the extras I’d saved, I was still 20 short. Fortunately I had another set for a different project so I stole 20 and I’ll worry about that project later.

I’m not big on ragging on manufacturers but coming up that short is just not acceptable. Some level of quality control is required. The duckbills are $16 per set and I used 2 sets so I paid $32. Now I’ve stolen 20 more duckbills from yet another $16 sets. Irratating. That said, this is the first time I’ve had a problem with RHPS tracks so I’ll continue to buy them. I just hope I don’t run into this problem again.

Ok, enough ranting. Once I got the tracks assembled, I painted them in Model Master Raw Sienna. I’ve found this color works well as a base color to represent the rust/dirt color typically seen on tracks. I then did a little drybrushing with Aluminum and gave the whole model a coat of Testor’s Dullcoat. I painted the rubber pads with Model Master Dark Drab which I’ve found to be a good representation of worn rubber. Afterwards, I gave the tracks a healthy wash in raw umber oil paint.

Finally, I used the same pigment method that I used for the lower hull. I did a final bit of drybrushing using a dark metallic color and also rubbed the chevron part of the track with my thumb until some of the earlier metal drybrushing showed through.

Up Next: Final Assembly