Academy’s M10- Achilles 1:35th tweaks list:

Based both on my findings while building this little gem and on what I read on the Internet, I’ve compiled this bit of writing.

This tweaks list was compiled with the utmost accuracy. What it does not give you, however, is: the exact location and size of items mentioned. This is something that you will have to work out for yourself, by using the sources given at the end of the list. Furthermore, I did nothing to alter or improve the basic shape of both hull and turret, as I thought a) that the anomalies were minimal and b) did not justify the risk of ruining the model beyond repair.

The Hull:

Step 1:   This Achilles is a late version, as the attachment points for extra armour on the hull are missing; therefore use the more common pressed wheels. A12+A13 or H36+H37, idlers  A15+ A16.

Steps 2~ 4: build as indicated.

Step 5:   As indicated before, this is a late Achilles; therefore transmission part B61 should lack the raised details. Tube B22 should have a cap added made out of plastic rod.

Step 6:   In the M10, the chairs were attached to the vertical hull sides. Change this at will.

Step 7:   Use final transmission housing B28 for a late-style Achilles.

Step 8:   There is some doubt concerning parts C54+C55. Part C38 could be either white or Olive Drab.

Step 9:   The raised part in the middle of C21 is a switchbox for the intercom; add detail.

Step 10: One of the spare headlights C43+C44 is a blackout light; paint it gloss black. US-style canteens H35 were not used in British vehicles.

Step 11: 17 pr shells came in wooden or sheet metal boxes, and not in tubes like M1+M2; 17 pr shells should for that reason be visible in the ammunition racks. Racks C28+C29+C30+C31 and C34 should be modified to accommodate the 17 pr ammunition.

Step 12: Exhausts C48+C49 need 4 bolts on the side facing the towing hook..

Step 13: Add 1 mm strip to the top of part C1; otherwise your tank deck will be higher at the front than at the rear. I have not heard of other modellers discovering this major mistake….

Step 14~16: Build as indicated.

Step 17: Don’t use fire extinguisher C33 here (you won’t see it once your model is finished); but use it to liven up your turret.

Step 21+22: British tool layout is totally different, check your drawings or http://afvinteriors.hobbyvista.com/m10/m10a.html

Step 23: Scratch build a British style first-aid box and glue it on the left hand side rear of the engine deck.

The Turret:

Step 24: The firing mechanism on part E4 should ideally be replaced and some wiring should be added.

Step 25: Take care: the breech bock is turned 180 degrees in this picture! (fortunately, I was able to rectify my
mistake…)

Step 26: Travel locks E24 are in a different position on late-style M10s: one in front of the gunner’s seat, the other in front of the commander’s seat. A lifting hook should be added to the rear of the turret (E52),right in the middle.Some vehicles lacked the handles H18; E30 was more or less level with the top of part E52.

Step 27: Right hand side:

As you may have noticed: the inside of the turret is rather tight; therefore, no soldier in his right mind would place or leave telephone cable reel E20+E21 on the inside of the turret. Boxes E18+E18 (for hand grenades) should be on the right hand side of the turret, just in front of sight E53.  Also, add a  range  finder in this cosy little corner. Next to the stenguns, there should be 9mm ammo pouches containing stengun magazines.

Left hand side: The left hand side contains: a fire extinguisher (C33- saved from the driver’s position), signal flags, and also a pair of stenguns. (You can choose between: using the stenguns from Italeri’s excellent accessories set, or take the 2 stenguns from your other Achilles (you did buy 2 of them, didn’t you?, so you don’t have to mix up two different types.) Important: if you build an Achilles without armour bosses on the hull sides, ideally  shave off the bosses from the turret sides as well!

Step 28: According to Mil Mod May’94, the gun tube is a little too long to fit, shorten the part that connects to the breech  by 5mm. The muzzle brake seems a little undersized, I didn’t bother to correct it, but feel free to spend tons of money on a turned aluminium barrel with the right sized muzzle brake.

An extra, improvised direct sight could be added to the right hand side of roof part E7.

Parts B40 should be copied and glued to the rear of the roof.

Two extra strips should be added to the counter weight, and bolts added.

Step 29: whereas the earlier cal..50 MG included in Academy’s M18 Hellcat seemed too small, this one seems to have an oversized barrel. Fix it according to your own ideas.

Accessary Parts H4+H19 were normally fixed on the nose of British M10s. Both horizontal or vertical is possible.  

Jerrycan H29+H30 is the British variant (WD=War Department, the “­” indicates produced in GB.) Jerrycan  H31+H32 is a US-style can.

                
References:

* M10 & Achilles pictures on http/afvinteriors.hobbyvista.com/

* Military Modelling May 1994.

Erik Jan Eskes
April 2002.