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You can only make so many T-34’s, BT’s, and other WWII Soviet subjects before you need to move on to other pastures. This is exactly what UM has done with this latest release from this prolific Ukranian manufacturer. Before this release, the Panzer 38(t) was limited to only the 1/76 scale Fujimi offering, or the limited run Attack kit.
The kit is molded very well in light grey plastic, and is resplendent with details. Overall construction is as one would expect from an Eastern European manufacturer, meaning the hull is broken down into several different panels. Construction starts with the hull, and while fit was fine here, the builder needs to be careful aligning the hull side plates, or it will throw off both the front and rear panels. I found it useful to use the bogie assembly mounting details on the bottom plate for reference, as there are no built in keys to guide assembly.
While the link and length tracks are well detailed and fit adequately, I found I needed to diverge from the instructions and used the shorter component 12A for the run from the drive sprocket to the first road wheel, since piece 11A called out in the instructions seemed a link too long. Furthermore, where the tracks go under the road wheels, I found it necessary to shave off the mating tongue from some of the pieces in order to get them to fit relatively well. Even then, however, I still had a few gaps that will unfortunately need a bit of mud to disguise. Finally, during assembly, I left all suspension components loose in order to remove the tracks for painting, but I also found that the posts joining the idlers and drive sprockets together were about .5mm too short, so I glued these on only after completing the track run around each piece. While the road wheels have an adequate level of detail on the outer surfaces, the interior parts are completely flat and totally without detail. Finally, after painting I slipped these on and found it a tight fit under the fenders.
While the upper hull is relatively hassle free, UM made the model extra-difficult by requiring the modeller to shave off rivets to detail a few points on the turret, as well as the rear engine access doors. Normally, in other scales, shaving off perfect rivets is challenging but not entirely difficult, but in this scale I found it nearly impossible to do without either loosing the piece after removal, or before gluing it on. I would suggest the easier option of drilling rivet holes with a pin vice, using very fine plastic rod or stretched sprue, and then sanding to a scale appearance.
Unfortunately, no hatches are molded open, requiring some modification if you want to display figures with the vehicle. Incidentially, the interior has a treadplate detail on the hull floor. Perhaps a kit is planned with interior details sometime in the future?
The kit includes a small fret of photo-etched metal parts, including all the fender braces and the characteristic perforated stowage box common on Pz. 38(t)s. While well formed, I found them very difficult to bend, and they definitely require some tools like Hold n’ Fold to accomplish. I’m not entirely sure of the material used, but from appearances, it looks like etched copper. I would have greatly preferred brass myself, as it is easier to manipulate. As it is, I snapped off the stowage box sides when I tried to adjust it. That being said, however, the kit looses nothing in the material used in the etchings.
Decals are included on a nice, big sheet with markings for 4 different vehicles: 3. Light Division, Poland 1939; 7. Panzer Division, France May 1940; 7. Panzer Division, Russia October 1941; and finally a Hungarian machine of the 1st Armored Division, Don Summer 1942. I painted my kit in typical early war fashion using Polly Scale Panzer Dark Gray. Tracks and suspension were sprayed flat black as part of the weathering process, with multiple washes, drybrushing, and some hand painting with Vallejo acrylics. After a coat of Future, I applied decals which snuggled down with an application of Solvaset, though repeated applications were required for the turret numbers to snuggle down properly and eliminate rinkles. The decals have a matte finish. While this may appeal to some, for me I wasn’t thrilled with the effect; it made it harder to judge whether the decals were adhering properly or if they were silvering. Since I glosscote the entire model before decaling, this finish had no advantage for me.
SUMMARY
Overall this is a great kit, and the finest of its type currently on the market. Although there were a few construction problems, none of these are insurmountable with just a modicum of skill and experience, save for the rivets detail.
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